replacing my oil bypass valve-going to a 30#
#1
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Location: minocqua Wi.
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need help replacing my oil bypass valve-going to a 30#
i've got the new one from GM but i have'nt tryed to stand on my head yet and take off the oil filter relocate castings to get at this oil bypass valve. im kinda waiting for some one from in here to tell me what i'm going to find in there. is there a screw or some thing that holds this thing in or is it press fit, and if so how hard am i going to have to pull to get it out and with what kinda tools do you suggest ?? Thanks Paul
Last edited by paulkairis; 07-24-2007 at 06:37 PM. Reason: need help
#2
21 and 42 footers
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Don't know how to get it out but I pulled that dam relocating bracket off 3 times in 3 weeks tracking an oil overheating problem on a twin engine. HOLY CRAP that thing is a bear to get to on the starboard motor of a twin. Good Luck.
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Paul,
They are just pressed in. We have a spring pulling tool that works good removing them. It has a hook on one end. I will try to remember to take a pic of it on Wednesday at the shop.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
They are just pressed in. We have a spring pulling tool that works good removing them. It has a hook on one end. I will try to remember to take a pic of it on Wednesday at the shop.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
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Thanks you guys thats great, i've got a couple dentist picks that might work then!! also get this, there was a blue pill in the box with the new valve and its about the same diameter as the small end, it looks just like a kids flintstones vitamin, what do you suppose it is??? i told my wife to put it on here tounge to see if it tastes like grape!!!!
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i don't know, it sounds like a pretty standard deal where if your oil filter stops flowing it'll bypass to continue oil flow to the engine. it's just that the marine use of relocated filters and coolers adds to the restriction of flow and so a 30-35# valve is needed vs a 10# or less for the auto guys. correct me if i'm wrong guys!!!
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I suggest you do some reading on this. I replaced mine with a 30# valve and it wasnt enough. i ended up taking the bearing out of my motor due to low oil pressure and the oil not getting cooled. I had to get the crank ground and new bearings. I ended up streamlining my oil cooling fittings filter pad, boring out all the fittings, and putting a freeze plug in. This was the only thing that worked for me. I know you transfer more load to the back of the cam but mine hasn't broke yet and i have a custom ground cam that is made out of a really cheap core.