24 volts for my hatch actuator
10-04-2007, 11:26 AM
#11
Charter Member
the only problem with wiring it up for 24v is that you wouldnt be able to ground the secondary battery to the main grounding system of the boat.....you would take the voltage for the actuator from the positive side of the original battery and leave all the rest of the wiring the same....then add you second battery (to make the 24v) in series...meaning you run the positive wire from this new battery to the neg side of the iriginal battery....then you will take the neg output of this new battery and go straight tot he actuator....keep it sepperate from the main grounding circuit or youll fry other parts of the boat out....
__________________
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
10-04-2007, 12:13 PM
#13
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: agua dulce, ca
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recently added headers to my boat and I noticed that the original angle was not the most desired for proper leavreage I adjusted the angle with minimal results ,the other thing is the distance of the actuator and gauge of wire play a big factor here also.
The easiest way to explain it is when you jump a car with skinny jumper wire it wont even crank over, same situation thicker wire cranks right over. It wont cost much either to try.
The easiest way to explain it is when you jump a car with skinny jumper wire it wont even crank over, same situation thicker wire cranks right over. It wont cost much either to try.
10-04-2007, 01:59 PM
#14
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 591
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The relays are able to handle the higher current draw without a reduction in voltage. If you were to replace your hatch circuit with a 20A switch and at least 8 ga wire, you may be able to achieve the same thing without the relays. The relays allow you to keep your 14-18ga control wiring to control the relays, but the hatch motor will run off of the larger conductors you install closer to the batteries in the engine compartment.
Think of it as a starter solenoid...same theory and operation. Only you need a relay for up and another for down.
Good Luck!
Think of it as a starter solenoid...same theory and operation. Only you need a relay for up and another for down.
Good Luck!
10-04-2007, 08:32 PM
#15
Registered
Stupid redneck fix. If when wired straight to the battery as you say it is still slow then your motor is underpowered, geometry wrong for the weight etc. Figure out how much downforce the hatch has in lbs at the point of contact. Go to auto parts store and get a gas spring of correct length and attach it to the ram such that it helps it up. As long as it has enough pull to overcome the gas spring it should go up much faster.
10-05-2007, 09:24 AM
#16
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Gaylord, Mi
Posts: 2,573
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stupid redneck fix. If when wired straight to the battery as you say it is still slow then your motor is underpowered, geometry wrong for the weight etc. Figure out how much downforce the hatch has in lbs at the point of contact. Go to auto parts store and get a gas spring of correct length and attach it to the ram such that it helps it up. As long as it has enough pull to overcome the gas spring it should go up much faster.
No thats not my problem. The problem is the gearing in the actuator. the gearing is so low that it goes up very slow. This is shown when I have no load on the actuator. but thanks for your suggestion
10-05-2007, 10:47 AM
#17
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you would decide to use the 24V either change your fuse to half the amps it was at 12V, or wire in a breaker that is half the amps. You don't want anything in the boat going poof.
