Suggestions for removing rusted exhuast manifold bolts???
05-25-2008, 11:03 PM
#11
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Patience and the sockets go a long way. I have removed many rusted deteriorated bolts. Rarely do I resort to the grinder.
Seems the problem is more the rusted heads than being stuck.
Impact on a rusted bolt head???
Seems the problem is more the rusted heads than being stuck.
Impact on a rusted bolt head???
05-26-2008, 10:46 AM
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New York, NY
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Your right Mobile... the few that I have gotten out (or broke off) were the only ones that I could get a bite on. I gotta buy a small set of 6 point metric and see how that goes. I looked for the penetration spray but cant find it. Probably gonna have to buy a new rachet and extention as well. I'll get these suckers off.
Thanks again guys....
Thanks again guys....
05-26-2008, 11:29 AM
#14
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05-26-2008, 02:24 PM
#16
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get a set of bolt extractors....specially made for this problem....I've used them on similar problems and always got the bolts out...even with half broken heads...
05-27-2008, 06:34 AM
#17
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Location: huntington ny
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Kroil, in my opinion, is better than PB blast. Shoot wha you can with Kroil, then add head (torch or heat gun), and then put an air wrench on it on LOW and let it sit there and hammer on it. The hammering works the Kroil into the cavities, and the heat helps too. Then add a new shot of Kroil and come back the next day. Sometimes it helps to come back on the next day and if they aren't willing to come out, add more Kroil and use the air wrench set to TIGHTEN. This works the lube into the opposite side of the threads.
If that fails, then go ahead and muscle the heads of the bolts off. Once you get your manifolds off, shoot more Kroil in and keep trying.
If you get close to the block, then you can use the failsafe method of removing the remains of the bolt.
1) grind the bolt flush with the block
2) add kroil
3) find a washer with a hole just a TOUCH smaller than the bolt diameter and drop it onto the bolt
4) Tig weld the washer to the bolt, directing the heat mostly into the broken bolt.
5) weld a NUT to the washer.
6) hammer on it a few times
7) throw an air wrench on it set to medium and zap it out.
The Kroil, the HEAT from the welding, the expansion of the bolt due to the heat, the hammer impact, the shrinking from cooling off, all of that breaks the HOLD on the bolt. It should zap right out with the air wrench.
This works on ANYTHING that is broken off in cast iron.
Mc
If that fails, then go ahead and muscle the heads of the bolts off. Once you get your manifolds off, shoot more Kroil in and keep trying.
If you get close to the block, then you can use the failsafe method of removing the remains of the bolt.
1) grind the bolt flush with the block
2) add kroil
3) find a washer with a hole just a TOUCH smaller than the bolt diameter and drop it onto the bolt
4) Tig weld the washer to the bolt, directing the heat mostly into the broken bolt.
5) weld a NUT to the washer.
6) hammer on it a few times
7) throw an air wrench on it set to medium and zap it out.
The Kroil, the HEAT from the welding, the expansion of the bolt due to the heat, the hammer impact, the shrinking from cooling off, all of that breaks the HOLD on the bolt. It should zap right out with the air wrench.
This works on ANYTHING that is broken off in cast iron.
Mc
05-27-2008, 07:38 AM
#18
Next Time I will take mobile's advice and try the smaller socket method first .... when we got the manifolds off like I said the bolts came out by hand ..... and had NO rust on the threads .....Its just that the bolt heads are "toast" from the rust .....m
05-27-2008, 10:49 AM
#19
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you had the wrong bit ..... we had both manifolds off in less than an hour ......
Next Time I will take mobile's advice and try the smaller socket method first .... when we got the manifolds off like I said the bolts came out by hand ..... and had NO rust on the threads .....Its just that the bolt heads are "toast" from the rust .....m
Next Time I will take mobile's advice and try the smaller socket method first .... when we got the manifolds off like I said the bolts came out by hand ..... and had NO rust on the threads .....Its just that the bolt heads are "toast" from the rust .....m
98% the bolts in the engine are stainless now and the ones that are not get checked at the end of every season and if they look like they could cause a problem i swap them out
