07DominatorSS

I know its just a dye. Royal Purple is not half the product it used to be a few years back, that just my .02. If you can actually find something on Royal Purples website saying its a genuine PAO Group IV, I would be very surprised. Also, it would be nice to find something comparing themselves to the others, not just stating they are "the best".

Read this.......
http://amsoil.com/products/gearlubes/WhitePaper.aspx

Someone told me to read this, and make my own decision. If their gearlube doesn't even meet some specs, what do you think their other products do?

fastedy

My engine builder has me running Valvoline Synthetic Racing Oil 20/50 written on bottle, NOT STREET LEGAL I have only found it at NAPA

Knot 4 Me

Someone told you to read this? Your Dad, the Amsoil salesman? You need to come clean on your bias for Amsoil and disdain for most any other product. I highly doubt Konrad would ship all their drives with Royal Purple if it was an inferior product.

Hydrocruiser

Very similiar formulation to M-1 15W-50 Silver Cap/GRP III base. Lots of ZDDP in both.

Both good

Hydrocruiser

Royal Purple is a blend of synthetic bases...including a good dose of Group IV and GRP III from a test I saw on an oil website test.

Some have mixed opinions of RP because it contains iso-parafinnic diluents. Sometimes it does wierd things if gasoline is introduced in through blow-by and may decrease lubricity possibly more than non parafinnic oils..

Any kind of parrafin has the potential to leave parrafin burn off waste/residue in an engine.

Penzoil is a parafinnic based oil too.

Not all bad as the parrafin wax when in gasoline changes properties...sometimes it just stays there and is stable and neutral. Other times it can form a gel.


That's why my personal favorite's are:

GRPIII PAO is M-1 Silver Cap; Valv VRI SYN 20w-50
GRP III/IV PAO Amsoil 20W-50; M-1 Gold Cap
GRP V. M-1 V-Twin or Redline and 20W-50 Amsoil Racing

You just need to be an educated consumer and know what you are paying for is all.


Mobil says no break-in before going synthetic. Both Redline and RP say break-in with a conventional oil before changing over.

IRONMAN

Dose anyone make a single viscosity syn or semi syn oil that would work well in the marine environment?? Seems like a straight 30 or 20 in a syn would be perfect. I don't see the need for a multi vis in a boat engine, can someone explain why a straight weight is not better?

Hydrocruiser

Here ya go...specially made for you...

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...2&categoryID=2


I prefer this for offshore use...

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...2&categoryID=2

or this...

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...2&categoryID=2


Group IV Synthetic oils that have no polymers added are actually straight weight oils that behave as a Multi-Vis.

I believe that M-1 V-Twin is An SAE 50 that flows like a 20W when at or around 40*C.


Turn on your speakers and watch...a must see...:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1

07DominatorSS

Hey, I would use Mobil 1 or Redline also, but prefer the AMSOIL over the Mobil 1, and can't justify the cost of the Redline, which is a very good product.

Hydrocruiser

What Amsoil product(s) do you use and where?

07DominatorSS

I use the Series 2000 20w-50 Racing Oil in both my 496ho's. I use the marine Gearlube in the drives. I also use the AMSOIL PI through the fuel system. I use the Water Resistant Grease for the trailer bearings and the Series 2000 Racing Grease for the gimbals. Also, I use the series 3000 5w-30 Diesel oil in my 7.3 Excursion, along with the ATF and Gearlube. Also the Signature Series Ow-30 in my Lexus IS350. I also use the oil filters on my boat and the bypass dual filter system on my truck.