Synthetic Motor Oil or NOT ???
07-25-2008 | 07:17 AM
#51
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From: Central IL
I've used Amsoil products in the past with great results. Stopped using it simply because of their "Amway" sales technique. I want to be able to go down to O'Reilly's and pick it up, not have to pay for a preferred membership and buy it in huge quantities as not to get reamed on S/H.
07-25-2008 | 10:39 AM
#53
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From: Westport, CT
I went that route myself on my other boat.
It will help somewhat with consumption.
My big blocks have always had this thing where you check oil level even after blasting and things are OK.
Then a fews days later it will have taken a drink.
Nature of the beast.......
d
It will help somewhat with consumption.
My big blocks have always had this thing where you check oil level even after blasting and things are OK.
Then a fews days later it will have taken a drink.
Nature of the beast.......
d
07-25-2008 | 11:03 AM
#54
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From: Portage,IN
Maybe a bad valvestem seal if your lucky.
I don't know how hard you run the boat but 3qts. seems like a lot of oil in 20hrs.
I had an engine doing that and had cracked rings.
I kept up on adding oil for the season.
Try not to let it ruin your season and then get into the engine in the offtime.
d
07-25-2008 | 12:33 PM
#55
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Now if you are asking about Motul 20W-50 Non-PAO totally synthetic Racing Oil @$31.80/ 1.2Litres...I'd go with Motul. It's a professional racing oil. It may be the one to beat. A very stout product.
http://www.motorspotstore.com/moraoi.html
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 07-25-2008 at 12:39 PM.
07-25-2008 | 01:29 PM
#56
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Westport, CT
If It were my situation I would be checking plugs,compression/leakdown,etc.
Maybe a bad valvestem seal if your lucky.
I don't know how hard you run the boat but 3qts. seems like a lot of oil in 20hrs.
I had an engine doing that and had cracked rings.
I kept up on adding oil for the season.
Try not to let it ruin your season and then get into the engine in the offtime.
d
Maybe a bad valvestem seal if your lucky.
I don't know how hard you run the boat but 3qts. seems like a lot of oil in 20hrs.
I had an engine doing that and had cracked rings.
I kept up on adding oil for the season.
Try not to let it ruin your season and then get into the engine in the offtime.
d
Thanks, don't think it is a ring as they were just replaced and had good compression on it 25 hrs ago (had a compression test done). Might have my mechanic run leakdown test to be on the safe side....all my other vitals look good though.
Thanks!
07-25-2008 | 03:39 PM
#57
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From: Tucson, AZ
My call is even between those two. The Harley guys like Eagle and Amsoil and then M-1 I hear..
Now if you are asking about Motul 20W-50 Non-PAO totally synthetic Racing Oil @$31.80/ 1.2Litres...I'd go with Motul. It's a professional racing oil. It may be the one to beat. A very stout product.
http://www.motorspotstore.com/moraoi.html
Now if you are asking about Motul 20W-50 Non-PAO totally synthetic Racing Oil @$31.80/ 1.2Litres...I'd go with Motul. It's a professional racing oil. It may be the one to beat. A very stout product.
http://www.motorspotstore.com/moraoi.html
I'm not to thrilled with the Brad Penn in my Skater...
07-25-2008 | 05:47 PM
#58
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,762
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Penn makes all the 30wt oil for Briggs and Startton lawn mowers. ZDDP is 1400-1500 ppm.
It's a green colored oil. They make a racing and V-Twin oil.
When you see those decreased temps With M-1 V-Twin on the gauges it means the engines are working a lot less harder and the wear will be decreased.
M-1 V-twin is a really an outstanding product.
Last edited by Hydrocruiser; 07-25-2008 at 05:53 PM.
