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looks like spun a bearing to me...
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Originally Posted by stevesxm
(Post 2699647)
there isn't going to be anything cheap about this. and if you don't figure out exactly why the oil got 400 degrees and took out the bottom end, your next post will be, " gee i just had my motor rebuilt and it blew up again almost immediatly"
nothing happens for no reason |
Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 2700062)
I would say less than 1g assuming no machine work is required. That is cheap to me, may be not to you?
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Originally Posted by 1BIGJIM
(Post 2699703)
Did you check to make sure the oil lines to the remote filter where on correct? Thats one way to cook the oil and engine.
Just a warning, Do not reuse that oil cooler. AND believe me when i say i know what i am talking about. Had an enginebuilder work onmy motor about 6 weeks ago and i am taking it out again for the second time after he did it. I can hook you up with the right guy if you are sirius about NOT getting screwed. To rebuild a complette engine should not take more then 4 days if parts are there. Last guy who did mine put all wrong stuff in it. NOW getting done wright for less what he robed me. |
Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 2700062)
I would say less than 1g assuming no machine work is required. That is cheap to me, may be not to you?
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That is some nasty looking oil. Looks like it got way too hot. For the next build, take some time to search and read a bunch of oil system threads. A lot of good information there. If you have a well designed oil system and a proper tune, you can run full throttle until the gas tank runs dry without hurting anything. Good luck.
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Just got off the phone with the builder.. FULL WARRANTY !!!, sending both to him next week..
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Dave, hope all goes well, just offer him thos suggestions I said about oil system, I bumped my pressures with new coolers and have no issues YET! 75psi cols, 40-50 after a good run, that seems to be helping me this time around. oil temps running hard 190-200 all the time!
as always, if you need any help I will do my best! |
Originally Posted by stevesxm
(Post 2700337)
i would say that if you took that approach to fixing this then you know less than the guy that put it together in the first place.
Glad to hear the builder will take care of it for you DMC. You can see in this thread who not to ask for advise going forward unless you want to unload fort knox. BT :cool: |
Originally Posted by blue thunder
(Post 2700975)
I would say if you conclude from some bronze in the oil filter and no spun bearings this is total destruction you are jumping to conclusions. I see one set of bearings, a polished crank, cooked block and all new gaskets. Any other conclusion from what is posted in this thread is ridiculous and most likely designed to line someones pockets.
Glad to hear the builder will take care of it for you DMC. You can see in this thread who not to ask for advise going forward unless you want to unload fort knox. BT :cool: I have had one hell of a season with similar issues, I wiped out mains 2 times this season, once on each engine, nobody in the world could give me a "perfect answer" I figured I had oiling issues, I pumped up my oil pressure and bought new cranks so they were not cut at all, I will tell you though... with the scrap Dave found I will pretty much gaurantee the crank needs cut, I have yet to ever have that much metal and was able to polish the crank. even when cutting and repolishing a crank you are looking at 300 or so just for that. I hope Dave gets fixed up, I know how many issues he has had in the past and this sucks for him, happens to all of us at some point but still sucks. Dave... I would also talk to him about running coated bearings, that is another change I made, I have always done it with my car engines and the coating gives you a little extra room for issues, it acts as a film that the oil itself gives you, if you have a little less oil for any reason the coating will normally save you at least for a short time... Like I said, Dave.. I will offer what i can! |
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