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Old 02-23-2009 | 05:34 PM
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ok i have a few things i need filled in on:

1.) i have recently purchaced a 500hp intake and carb. since i dont have a dyno does anyone know if a carb spacer plate would help or hurt? i have one on my stock intake and i could use it if i wanted. it is 1 inch.

2.) has anyone ever cut risers before. i was tolt that there is a dam welded in the bottom of factory wet style risers. or if anyone could send me a pic of their riser tip (gil) that would be great.

3.) i have the stock thunderbolt 4 VI igniton 502 mag. would i be pissing in the wind to purchace a msd blaster coil for that setup. i dont plan on getting a full upgrade. just wondering if anyone else has done that.

4.) 500hp bravo 1 24 foot outlaw 1.36 ratio drive (which is weird) what prop would you guess (and i mean guess.. i know this is hard to do) would be the best all around. can have like 6 people in it at times and alot of coolers. but i want speed too.

I'm sure im gonna have more questions but ill post them when the old wheels start turning again.
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Old 02-23-2009 | 09:31 PM
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1. If its just a standard aluminum 1" spacer then I wouldn't run it.
2. There is no dam in Gil risers unless someone added it.
3. Just run a merc coil. I used an MSD blaster and it lasted 2 years. I put on a spare 13 year old Merc and it worked fine.
4. I would start with a 24" Bravo 4 blade prop.
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Old 02-23-2009 | 10:42 PM
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does anyone think a 1.36 ratio drive is wrong for my boat?
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Old 02-24-2009 | 01:54 AM
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A 1.50 would probably be better, but a 1.36 will still work fine. I have 1.36's on my AT with 24" props. I could probably spin labbed 28's with 1.50's. Some people say 1.36 gears are stronger, but 1.50's will give better acceleration.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 11:19 AM
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should i just cut the riser straight (inner wall as long as outer wall) or have the inner wall like an inch longer? why do some of them look like that
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Old 02-24-2009 | 12:02 PM
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Why are you cutting the risers??????????????

You really want the inner shorter than the outer where they connect to the exhaust tips. The outer diameter is also larger than standard 4" exhaust tips.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 01:21 PM
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i got the risers last year for 200.00 and they were dry pipes. i was going to just try and put them on ebay and someone told me i could just cut them and make them wet. so i did. i cut them real long and kinda crude. so i made a perfect cut with a bandsaw and i have not made the second cut yet due to the fact i dont know how to set them up. but the standard hose slid on them with a little help. it all worked fine last year. but i could just leave the inner and outer pipe the same length. i dont know whats best. but i only have like 3 inches of distance from the pipe to the transom tips. using like 6 inches of rubber hose to fill the gap.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 01:44 PM
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I would leave your risers alone. I wouldn't have cut them in the first place, let those dry pipes sing baby!
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Old 02-24-2009 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by c_deezy
I would leave your risers alone. I wouldn't have cut them in the first place, let those dry pipes sing baby!
i didnt want to make new holes in the transom for the water to exit. i have allready cut them. i bet i could hve re-sold them for enough to buy a regular set. im dumb.
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Old 02-24-2009 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Fixxxer22
i got the risers last year for 200.00 and they were dry pipes. i was going to just try and put them on ebay and someone told me i could just cut them and make them wet. so i did. i cut them real long and kinda crude. so i made a perfect cut with a bandsaw and i have not made the second cut yet due to the fact i dont know how to set them up. but the standard hose slid on them with a little help. it all worked fine last year. but i could just leave the inner and outer pipe the same length. i dont know whats best. but i only have like 3 inches of distance from the pipe to the transom tips. using like 6 inches of rubber hose to fill the gap.
I would just leave the inner and outer walls the same length then.
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