Help boys!! I F%&ked up.....
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04-09-2002, 06:45 PM
#22
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Travis
Eutectic makes a tig rod called Castolin. No preheating will be required and repairs will be fine. Technology seems to have passed some of these boys up. I have also had very good sucess repairing cast iron with tig using silicon bronze rod. Also with no preheating. Find a GOOD welder and you won't have any problems.
Eutectic makes a tig rod called Castolin. No preheating will be required and repairs will be fine. Technology seems to have passed some of these boys up. I have also had very good sucess repairing cast iron with tig using silicon bronze rod. Also with no preheating. Find a GOOD welder and you won't have any problems.
04-09-2002, 07:30 PM
#23
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Well the guys were over and we had our little pow wow. The best welder in town was here and has done lots of these. The welder is going to solder them up (because it uses alot less heat), he was very confindent on fixing these small holes. Then we are going to fill the block with 1-1.5" of "Hard Blok" a cement like substance to reinforce the areas. Our buddy was here that runs drag cars and he said he wouldn't even fill the hole, he just fills with hard blok and run it.. LOL! i said we might have the holes welded too, to be on the safe side. so we are headed in the right direction now.. hopefully back to normal in a few days..
Thanks for all the info guys!
Travis
Thanks for all the info guys!
Travis
04-09-2002, 07:38 PM
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How many internal engine parts have you welded with this method Ultrafine? Some facts would be beneficial for us "boys" to learn the new technology. In my opinion, the penalty for weld failure in this instance far outweighs the small cost of installing a virgin casting. New block is the only way to feel good about the ordeal Traviss. Feeling good and confident when you are out boating is paramount in my estimation. Anything else is anxiety!!!
My .02
BT
My .02
BT
04-09-2002, 10:43 PM
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Travis, if i remember correctly, I did the same stoker project you did. And .. yes, the same thing happened to me. It seems as though the blocks are not all cast exactly the same. Pitch the damaged block and get another one. I tried the remedies on the bad one and had to take a motor out and replace. TRUST me, it aint worth the time. (which you don't have much of, it is April now).
Steve
PS, if you need another, i will send it.
Steve
PS, if you need another, i will send it.
04-09-2002, 11:50 PM
#27
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Bluethunder
Do I detect a note of sarcasm in your post.
First of all I do not consider an engine block "an internal part". I also do not consider sealing a very minor hole in a block as a major repair.
What would you like to learn about tig welding I will do my best to explain it. I thought I was quite specfic as to the rod type and manufactuer of that rod. This rod was designed for small repairs to cast iron without the need of preheating.
As far as my welding experiance I have been welding over 30 years. I have held certifications in welding aluminum, magnesium, stainless steel, iconel, titainum, and chrome moly.
BTW most stainless steels actually anneal after heating as well as aluminum.
Do I detect a note of sarcasm in your post.
First of all I do not consider an engine block "an internal part". I also do not consider sealing a very minor hole in a block as a major repair.
What would you like to learn about tig welding I will do my best to explain it. I thought I was quite specfic as to the rod type and manufactuer of that rod. This rod was designed for small repairs to cast iron without the need of preheating.
As far as my welding experiance I have been welding over 30 years. I have held certifications in welding aluminum, magnesium, stainless steel, iconel, titainum, and chrome moly.
BTW most stainless steels actually anneal after heating as well as aluminum.
04-10-2002, 12:35 PM
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No Ultrafine, I was in fact not being sarcastic other than the boys remark. I asked a guy at work that does significant cast iron repir welding and has for 40 years about what you suggest. He was familiar with it and agreed that it may work, but though as I the risk was too great. He would get a new block. Some facts surrounding your sucesses and such with and internal engine weld job what I was after. Cast iron weld failure is a part of my everyday work life and if I am missing something I would love to learn more about it.
Lastly, I would agree with your weld repair method if this was indeed a minor hole. If fact I would try JB weld if that was the case. The description I read indicated significant thinning of possibly large areas. When he broke through he stopped grinding. The hole visible might be .020 in dia. The thinned area could be an inch or more in multiple undectable places. New block all the way.
BT
Lastly, I would agree with your weld repair method if this was indeed a minor hole. If fact I would try JB weld if that was the case. The description I read indicated significant thinning of possibly large areas. When he broke through he stopped grinding. The hole visible might be .020 in dia. The thinned area could be an inch or more in multiple undectable places. New block all the way.
BT
04-10-2002, 01:31 PM
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I apoligize if I offended anyone with my comment about boys. It was ment only with good intent to a group of boys like myself that continue to grow older but refuse to grow up.
Really Blue repairs such as these are done everyday. I have another hobby besides boating and that is drag racing. I have had many stroker motors running aluminum rods and all needed a lot of grinding on the oil pan rail. I do normally block fill with Hard Blok before doing this grinding but I have had to repair those I didn't.
I have had many blocks that have cracked at the bottom of a cylinder and would not consider repairing them as the parts are stressed at that point. However the rail is not a problem.
Travis' builder has the right idea a low tempature repair such as I mentioned with a silicon bronze rod or Castolin. After that a small bit of hard block and in my opinion forget about it.
To throw away an already machined block for something as minor as this would be ridicules. If you were to fail at repairs you have lost nothing if you give up now you have lost a bit more.
As you mentioned some JB Weld to contain the hard Blok would probably work as well however Hard Blok will expand as it sets up and can make rehoning needed. So take care not to fill the block to much.
Really Blue repairs such as these are done everyday. I have another hobby besides boating and that is drag racing. I have had many stroker motors running aluminum rods and all needed a lot of grinding on the oil pan rail. I do normally block fill with Hard Blok before doing this grinding but I have had to repair those I didn't.
I have had many blocks that have cracked at the bottom of a cylinder and would not consider repairing them as the parts are stressed at that point. However the rail is not a problem.
Travis' builder has the right idea a low tempature repair such as I mentioned with a silicon bronze rod or Castolin. After that a small bit of hard block and in my opinion forget about it.
To throw away an already machined block for something as minor as this would be ridicules. If you were to fail at repairs you have lost nothing if you give up now you have lost a bit more.
As you mentioned some JB Weld to contain the hard Blok would probably work as well however Hard Blok will expand as it sets up and can make rehoning needed. So take care not to fill the block to much.
04-10-2002, 01:38 PM
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ultrafine,
i guess i'm the "boy" you are referring to that technology has passed by. i'm not going to post a resume here like you practially did but technology hasn't passed me by, i assure you. i was only trying to help a fellow member make a well informed decision.
i understand the manufacturer intended to make a welding rod where no pre and post heating is required. i personally would pre and post heat anyway. you may like doing it another way, which is fine. "technology" can't replace or change the physical changes that take place to cast iron when heated though. it will still become brittle, stress cracks are more likely if you don't use heat. stress cracking is cracking at the weld due to molecular changes caused by the extreme heat required to melt the metal. no rod no matter how technically advanced, can stop those changes, only heat and slow cooling can.
BT, thanks. your right about a new block being the best solution. if you ever need anything welded let me know, i'd be happy to help you if i can. i may have coke bottle glasses and be a technically challenged, but this "boy" can still run a bead or two if i could only remember where my welding machine is.
i guess i'm the "boy" you are referring to that technology has passed by. i'm not going to post a resume here like you practially did but technology hasn't passed me by, i assure you. i was only trying to help a fellow member make a well informed decision.
i understand the manufacturer intended to make a welding rod where no pre and post heating is required. i personally would pre and post heat anyway. you may like doing it another way, which is fine. "technology" can't replace or change the physical changes that take place to cast iron when heated though. it will still become brittle, stress cracks are more likely if you don't use heat. stress cracking is cracking at the weld due to molecular changes caused by the extreme heat required to melt the metal. no rod no matter how technically advanced, can stop those changes, only heat and slow cooling can.
BT, thanks. your right about a new block being the best solution. if you ever need anything welded let me know, i'd be happy to help you if i can. i may have coke bottle glasses and be a technically challenged, but this "boy" can still run a bead or two if i could only remember where my welding machine is.
