well I have been grinding on my block to make clearance for the rod throws. What has happened is I have broke into the waterjacket at the bottom of block next to the cylinder, in two spots. I need to know what the trends are for fixing my F^&k up.

We. have talked to some buddies, one is bringing a sonic tester to test the thickness of my other grinding spots. We can weld, use devcon (epoxy) or fill the lower 1/2" of the block with block filler, these spots that have broken through are not very stressed areas, they just need to be filled so water does not enter the engine..

these newer blocks ( 1 piece rear mains) are 25 lbs. lighter then older blocks and this area is where they skimped on metal.


Help!!


Thanks guys

I would look at getting another block. I would not take the chance of tearing up other good parts, time, money, & etc. on a patched block. I am assuming it is iron block & not aluminum.

yeah we have talked about that, its just i am broke, no money to have my other block machined


yes, it is cast iron 350... were gonna patch her up some way and keep my fingers crossed

Get another block. You won't get it to seal properly... Sorry to hear about this--every engine builder that modifies engines has done this before. I have...

i had block sealer put in mine by the machine shop only to find the white milky death about the third time i drove it(my street car) learn from someone elses mistake here and get another block. trust me do it once the right way it will be cheaper(alot) in the long run!!!!!!!!!!

Major bummer Traviss. I can really empathize with how you felt the moment you realized what had happened. I'm sure we all can. A jury rig will only cause more agony down the road and sap your enjoyment with worry while on the water. Find a way to do it right. Maybe some kind soul on our board could donate a short block to you fairly cheap. I would if I had one cause I know the feel.

Good luck,

BT

new or used block no other way is worth it
your going put all that time and money into it
only to cost more later,
I have not been on this board long , but everyone here
seems pretty damn helpful.
Its very possible you might find someone with a block,
shipping would be the issue.

I agree with the others that the best solution is to get a new block. However if you are asking how to fix it, I would try
Devcon on the oil side, cleaning the block with some laquer thinner, so it stick as well as posible. Then I would think the suggestion of a few inches of hard block in the bottom of the water jacket would finish it off, I know several buddies that ran this in their jetboats. No problems, but they didn't have holes in their pan rails either. The Devcon should hold though, let it dry well and mix exactly to instructions due to the emphasis here. Good luck. People use Devcon in lots of places that holds for years, I know a guy who repaired his block, but leak would have been to the outside, and it is still running today, 6 years later.

Course the best way to repair is to replace. BUT, seen heads that have been welded up from a misguided valve stem are still going strong. I would think that the temps at the block repair would be a lot lower than the repairs that are done to heads. So that may work to your advantage, plus the fact that you are only dealing with 20psi of pressure vs ?????? in the combustion chamber. If you do go this route, I would be sure to use someone with cast iron welding experience AND install torque plates afterwards and pressureize the block afterwards to check for leaks before any reassembly. This depends on how many areas show up thin with the sonic tester. my .02

GET A NEW BLOCK!!!!!! Your time is worth money too and think about it--if one little area springs a leak while your out on the lake you will wipe out everything in that motor. Then no more boating for a while and a whole lot of headaches to match. DO THE RIGHT THING!!!!! You can find a new block cheap--just put a little effort into it.

Good luck,
Dave