US1,

You may or may not recall all of the fun that I had with the head gaskets on my Gen IV 454 last summer. I basically had the same problem that you are having - water was weeping out where the block and head come together. I was also getting water in my oil - double check to make sure that you are not also having that problem! My engine builder used Ferrea composite gaskets on the engine, and said that they sometimes need a couple of heat cycles to get a good seal. I went as far as installing a 180* T-stat to get it good and warm. No dice - kept on leaking. I took the boat out to him, and had him install a set of Fel-Pro Permatorques. Problem solved. BTW - he found that the flunkee that was helping him had neglected to use sealer on the threads! Hope he didn't forget anything else, like torquing rod bolts!

If the leak slowed down after re-torquing, it might go away completely after a few heat cycles. As long as you aren't getting any water in the oil, it is more of an annoyance than an impending disaster. Doesn't do much for the peace-of-mind, though, does it?

Sorry I can't offer more help. Good luck!

Some (all ?) BBC heads have a water plug on the outside between the center cylinders. It's used for temp senders for EFI, and usually plugged on everything else. Could the plug be leaking and you just see the water settle on the block/head surface as it pools there?

-Greg

Felpro head gaskets..ARP bolts and washers..30wt oil..sealant in the holes that go to water jackets...torque to 75lbs..wait a bit and losen and re torque one at a time in seaquence= no leaks
Good luck!!!!!!!
Dan

I do it exactly like DanB, except I use sealant on all holes whether they go into water or not, I only torque to 65 because of aluminum heads, I retorque to 67 after first good hard run. I think it is important to use the same substance on all bolt threads as each will affect actual clamp force achieved slightly different. The important thing is even clamping on all bolts.

For US1 I would strongly urge a pressure test of the water coolant system. That will tell the story.

BT

i forgot to say in the first post, the reason i like studs better than bolts is that you don't have to disturb the sealant on the bolt holes that pass through the water jackets on a retorque. they are stonger too but the downside is they cost more. $112 dollars for one engine, for that price they should have jumped out of the box and installed themselves

It sounds to me like ALL the bases are covered here. I really have nothing that I can add. Good luck, and I hope that your problem is repaired.

I hate to admit it eagle42, but I paid more than that for ARP bolts for one engine. I evidently got raped. I didn't think that the studs would fit with my roller rocker heads/valve covers. I'll do better next time.

BTW eagle42, When are we meeting up for that brewski at the Chesepeake Inn? Won't be long and I'll have to have the full contingent with me (wife and kids). This test run time of year is great for such activities!!!!


BT

you paid what it happens. summit racing for $112.
i can meet you anytime down there in the next week with the little boat. the big one is still apart with parts strewn all over. i may make the first trip on saturday or better yet sunday, depending on the weather. let me know
[email protected]

Eagle42... I don't know how far I will go this weekend. Depends on how well I fixed everything after my last test run. Just put the SB engine back in the other day. Should have it all hooked up tonight. What do you go by on VHF?

We do what DanB suggested...but sealant on all the bolts..