Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
water in oil >

water in oil

Notices

water in oil

Thread Tools
 
Old 04-26-2010, 12:23 AM
  #21  
Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have heard of several people having similiar problems as you. If you have the Lightning headers with the tail pipes that go directly to the headers, you need to high temp silicone where the tail pipes meet up with the headers! I think there are two bolts where they hook on to the headers. If not siliconed you will get reversion into the exhaust valve and into the oil.

Hope this works for you and is a cheap fix.
dslbrnr is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 11:46 AM
  #22  
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
 
ballon78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Amesbury, ma
Posts: 749
Received 17 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by cabin fever
got a couple more hours to work on the boat today.

Oil Cooler is good. After I checked it, I cleaned it up, and reinstalled.

Since I had a compression gauge I went, and ahead, and checked each cyl just for the hell of it. Not sure on the results, The motor is still kinda fresh.

#1 = 167
#3 = 165
#5 - 140 checked again at the end, and was 140 2nd time
#7 = 160

other side
#2 = 141 (checked again, and went up to 152)
# 4 = 175
#6 = 175
# 8 = 160

in the process of pressuring the coolant system, and had a couple questions.

1. can I plumb a gauge into the port on the intake next to the thermostat housing to monitor water pressure?

2. is there a way to adapt a coolant pressure tester for radiator caps to work on the inlet house for my motor?

Any suggestions?
I just pressure tested my 502 mag the ther day. I blocked off the water in and the water out hoses with copper sweat pluming cas, just pushed them into the hoses and clamed down. then removed my water temp sender, and put a 1/4 inch barb hose fitting on thermastate housing, then using my Snap-on car pressure tester, just take the rad cap adapter off and conect hose to barb fitting.
ballon78 is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 08:02 PM
  #23  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: iowa
Posts: 709
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

How long should I monitor it?

Pumped it up to 16psi. Hadn't moved after 40 min or so. Checked it right at an hour, and it had gone down a little bit. less then 1#

Any thoughts?

test #2.

(retightened all hose clamps) Pumped up to 18# this time. almost an hour, and gauge has not moved.

Last edited by cabin fever; 04-26-2010 at 09:18 PM.
cabin fever is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 08:16 PM
  #24  
Registered
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: yorkville,il
Posts: 8,427
Received 87 Likes on 49 Posts
Default

it sounds like the headers are leaking,pressure test then,if they are leaking,you get reversion,that will put water in the oil.
mike tkach is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 09:12 PM
  #25  
Gold Member
Gold Member
 
sunchaser796's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

One other thing that needs to be checked and that is
1. Are you using aluminum heads ? If so , how many hours are on the engine.
2. CMI Headers ? Look for leaks around the inside welds at the flange.
Do check ALL coolers if more than one.
And DSL is correct from what he has said.
Good Luck
sunchaser796 is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 09:15 PM
  #26  
Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It's the headers. Rseal those babies at the tail pipe connection. One word Reversion>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Call Lightning Headers, they will tell you...
dslbrnr is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 09:16 PM
  #27  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: iowa
Posts: 709
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by sunchaser796
One other thing that needs to be checked and that is
1. Are you using aluminum heads ? If so , how many hours are on the engine.
2. CMI Headers ? Look for leaks around the inside welds at the flange.
Do check ALL coolers if more than one.
And DSL is correct from what he has said.
Good Luck
Merlin Alum heads. 25 hrs ??? on the motor

Lighting headers. Headers are one piece straight to a hose, to the tip.
cabin fever is offline  
Old 04-26-2010, 11:49 PM
  #28  
Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Cucamonga, CA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Lightning made different style headers, some straight to the hose and later to the tail pipes! Even though some look like they go straight to a hose, they connect to the tail pipe underneath the hose. You will have to loosen and remove the hose, unbolt the tail pipe pull it away and re-silicone where they meet.
I know it seems crazy, but lots of guys have thought it was a bad head gasket, cracked head/block ect.
dslbrnr is offline  
Old 04-27-2010, 08:02 AM
  #29  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: iowa
Posts: 709
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dslbrnr
Lightning made different style headers, some straight to the hose and later to the tail pipes! Even though some look like they go straight to a hose, they connect to the tail pipe underneath the hose. You will have to loosen and remove the hose, unbolt the tail pipe pull it away and re-silicone where they meet.
I know it seems crazy, but lots of guys have thought it was a bad head gasket, cracked head/block ect.
Thanks. I will check that out.
cabin fever is offline  
Old 04-27-2010, 12:17 PM
  #30  
Registered
 
Lofty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 3,249
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Sounds like exhaust problems for sure. Run the motor on the water and get it up to operating temp, with fresh oil of coarse. Bring it back to the dosck and pull one or both headers away from heads. If you have any water then you have reversion or a crack. Lightnings tend to crack up at the collector inside and it's very hard to see. If you overheat them from bagging a pump or running dry on the trailer you will distort the internal collector and that can cause it to crack. If you can, look up inside the header from the tail end. You should be able to see a round collector, if it's not perfectly round then it's been oveheated and is likely cracked.

Have you looked at you spark plugs for signs of moisture? That is a good telltale that there is an exhaust issue.

If you pull the headers off and send them to lightning Jan will test them for you.
Lofty is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.