Speed Issue
#31
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as far as the fuel issue is concerned look at the anti-sih valve at the tank inlet...very restrictive...but also why would you build a 427 ? great engine but not great torque...cubic inches are key to torque in boats...if I were spending $$$ on doing a engine would have been a 468 min...the longer stroke 454 much better in a boat. now I agree with griff on the props. the other issue with that engine is the RPM thats needed to make power..upper 5000's and the drive is not going to like that all that well....
As far as the drive goes. Mr. Gadgets has told me that my drive is happy up to 6500 as long as the tolerences are in check!
Last edited by endeavour32; 08-20-2010 at 03:21 PM.
#32
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Anyone who works on drives will tell you the same thing. They are much happier spinning a small prop at 6000rpm then turning a big prop at 5000. Torque kills drives..
Get all your rigging issues figured out, prop that thing to spin to 6k and go have fun.
Get all your rigging issues figured out, prop that thing to spin to 6k and go have fun.
#33
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Ok- I'm getting closer!!! Maybe I'll love this engine yet! I drilled 4- 1/8" holes in my thermostat (I'm running a crossover) Heating problem solved! I called patrick at prosystem and we are jetting the carb up 4 sizes and droping the air bleeds to solve the lean issue. Today with the mirage plus 23 I hit 59 mph at 4800 rpms without cracking the 4 barrels. I don't want to push it until the new jets are in. Once again, will report back!
As far as the valvetrain goes, I'm using morel lifters, the new scorpion marine endurance rockers, custom push rods, inconnel exhaust valves... I'm confident my valvetrain is perfect!
I sure hope this topic helps someone else avoid the headaches I've had fine tuning this.
As far as the valvetrain goes, I'm using morel lifters, the new scorpion marine endurance rockers, custom push rods, inconnel exhaust valves... I'm confident my valvetrain is perfect!
I sure hope this topic helps someone else avoid the headaches I've had fine tuning this.
Last edited by endeavour32; 08-21-2010 at 01:15 AM.
#35
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I tried everything! Petit, back to nature marine stripper, kleen strip for fiberglass, west marine stripper... The best was something I just tried for the he!! of it... Behr Priemium deck stripper from home depot! $20.00 a gallon and worked better than all the $70.00 gallon marine strippers and it had no negitive effects on the gelcoat. I applied it with a pump up sprayer and removed it with a power washer and a roto tip nozzle. If you go this route you must have the roto tip nozzle!
Last edited by endeavour32; 08-21-2010 at 01:16 AM.
#37
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Well I got out today with the labbed 25 and a fuel pressure guage! The boat will now pull the 25 without much problem up to 4000 rpms, then the engine will stall out unless I pull back. I hooked up the pressure guage and I'm only getting 2.5 lbs from idle to 4000. At 4000 the bowls are drained! So that tell me one thing the fuel pump is junk!
#39
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Ok I finally got the boat back in the water now that the ice is gone, so here is an update to my thread. Over the winter I made a few changes. 1. I removed the Stainless Marine Exhaust and installed Eickert headers. That said I picked up 200 rpms and much better throttle reponse. 2. rebuilt the raw water pump, the case was shot as was the impeller, solved the over heating issue. 3. Swapped out the old Mirage 21 non-plus, for a Mirage 21 Plus. Top speed is now 69 mph. So basically other than getting a lot of bugs worked out, the results of getting the bottom paint free and getting the correct prop on the boat I picked up a solid 12 mph, my prop slip went from 26% to 13%. Thanks for all your help guys. Now its time to get ahold of BBlades and let Bret do his magic.