Could be real simple like ur thermostat is sticking....even if there is a hole drilled in it if it sticking the temp will go up...and when u run it at higher rpms its starts to cool off. That happened to me.....I run a 120degree thermostat now.

I thought that procharger tells you to remove the thermostat, yes I have EFI. Ok so here we go I kinda know my way around ECM tuning. By removing the thermostat how does that affect the AFR? Since there is no O2 sensors that I can see the ECM has to rely on the temp sensors to control the amount of fuel. Since there are no o2 sensors at least on my engine it is basically stuck in "open loop", this RPM VS this engine temp = this much fuel. By saying it will run rich you are basing this on the lower water temp?

Im having a hard time trying to understand how the flow of water through the engine or coolers is going to affect my AFR. The ECM is stock merc. tuning, it uses a FMU to achieve more fuel.
If my thinking is wrong please correct me so I can get my head around this.

I was thinking of that also. I will have to call Pro charger to verify the thermostat or no thermostat!

When the water temp gets too cool the ecm things that you are just starting the engine and will put in more fuel into the engine. Depends on how the ecm is programed. I have friend that has 2 -454 mpi and m1 prochargers, he has crossover and water temp never gets over 110-120. Motors have 320+ hrs with procharges on them and still going strong.

Lean fuel, too much engine heat, too low fuel octanel, and/or too much timing can real easy turn a procharged engine into a boat anchor.

Thank you that is what I was getting at.

Who knows what the temp is where in the tuning switches from the cold start and run to warmed up run? In my truck it is 131 degrees? I believe the ECM is stock.

I took the thermostat housing off and to my surprise there was a 140 thermostat in there. Not only that but it was put in wrong. I called pro charger they stated to run just the housing or nothing at all. Maybe I will get this thing cooled down.

Plus I looked at the ECM again guess what it has a Arizona speed and marine sticker on it. Probably where the dead spot in the throttle is coming from! From reading what I have I almost want to go back to a stock computer. Starting to feel like a bad episode of AS THE PROP TURNS.

I would pull that ECM and send it to Mark @ PM ...its like 350-400 bucks to setup. Talk to them about the setup they have for incoming air temp, it cannot go over 130-135* .....m

http://www.pmefi.com/

Took it out today BBBUUURRRR getting cold here 60 degrees air temp! Water temp was low to mid 60's water temp barely crawled above 110, might have to run just the housing.

A new problem poked it's head out. I think the batteries are getting weak. After floating and enjoying a couple of barley pops we started to idle back to the dock and the engine started chugging then died. Once we got the boat on the trailer and out of the water I cycled to the key to see what FP we were getting, one battery would only get up to 15 PSI the other would get to 20 or so, with the switch on both it would prime to 40. I'm thinking that the batteries are getting weak. On a side note should the fuel system maintain FP once the key is turned off. Starting to wonder if I will ever get to the bottom of the problems.