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Old 12-21-2010, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SS930
I sure have and I wouldn't want to rely on just a KS to save my engine! Most KS systems on big HP engines are non factory installed (but use GM parts) and can be decent tools. They are often glued or bolted to the engine where ever they can conveniently be placed and often with little tuning or filtering in place. To work correctly they basically need a trained person to set them up properly and get them integrated into the ECU correctly if the system is to be active... If not they will often give a lot of false signals. And I've also seen a lot of them not even setup to do anything when knock is sensed! Even passive KS systems have some value if the operator knows what they are looking for and keeps a close eye on things.

I like to think of them as a good tuning tool, but I wouldn't bet my big dollar engine on just an aftermarket KS system!
and knock sensors have been known to detect a bad bearing on the way out and save a motor .... stop shopping at Harbour frieght


you posted str8 meth for performance reasons , dyno sheets to confirm your theory or you just feel the ground shake in a street care ??? inquiring minds want to know
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Itsallgood995
I remember reading an old post here where some guy did a water injection that was plumbed into his cooling system? Think he had it tapped into the sea strainer.
Filtered water coming right off the sea water pump, unlimited supply. No extra octane, but it still cools the air charge and controls detonation.
In a piston engine, the initial injection of water cools the fuel-air mixture significantly, which increases its density and hence the amount of mixture that enters the cylinder. An additional effect comes later during combustion when the water absorbs large amounts of heat as it vaporizes, reducing peak temperature and resultant NOx formation, and reducing the amount of heat energy absorbed into the cylinder walls. This also converts part of combustion energy from the form of heat to the form of pressure. As the water droplets vaporize by absorbing heat, it turns to high pressure steam (water vapor or steam mainly resulted from combustion chemical reaction), that would add engine output.

Last edited by GPM; 12-21-2010 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RunninHotRacing158
you posted str8 meth for performance reasons , dyno sheets to confirm your theory or you just feel the ground shake in a street care ??? inquiring minds want to know
I'm not sure what you're saying or asking here (???)
I've played with both water, meth, and mixtures for years. Even nitro, water, meth mixes (water doesn't mix with nitro BTW). Nitro is cool ****, but needs huge quantities to be really beneficial. Water and weaker meth mixes are good for cheap liquid IC and warding off some detonation. Unfortunately, you can only spray so much water before it becomes counter productive. No question, you can make more power with straight meth! With meth you can spray as much as you want, up until you completely replace all the gas with meth if you wanted to (assuming the tuning was in place). Meth has more of a latent cooling effect and has the added benefit of having a high natural octane (which water obviously doesn't). So not only does it cool more, it's also like a race gas in itself. For these reasons straight meth is capable of making more power than water or any water meth mixture. And again, since it's fuel, it's easier to integrate and tune around.
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Old 12-22-2010, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Philm
That is WildWarriors boat. 377 Hustler Talon, by no means a fast hull, has been north of 160mph on that setup. I went for a ride on it at 147mph with 5 guys on board and two full tanks of fuel. Still pulling hard when we threw a blower belt.

They spray straight methanol in those engines. Rudy just pulled them out with 300 hours each because "it just seemed like time". Leakdowns are still great though.
Still pulling hard

you can say that twice Phil Its a Hard pullin MoFo
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:36 PM
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I tried meth injection for the first time two days ago. That $hit works great, all kinds of power but I can't sleep. Might as well do another injection and stay up untill New Years. Party on, typed all this in less than 3 seconds, going to jog around the block for a couple of hours, gotta love meth.
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy
I tried meth injection for the first time two days ago. That $hit works great, all kinds of power but I can't sleep. Might as well do another injection and stay up untill New Years. Party on, typed all this in less than 3 seconds, going to jog around the block for a couple of hours, gotta love meth.
hahaha alright that was funny!
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:28 PM
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u mean Crank
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Old 12-23-2010, 04:53 AM
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Last year we had this discussion on here, as far as "windshield washer fluid' were I live you can buy 55 gallon drums of the stuff, it IS methanol alcohol with no soap or water added and just a tint of blue dye and it cost next to nothing, used to be 55 cents a gallon, I think last time I checked it was 120$ a 55 gallon drum. I have kicked it around, the biggest drawback I see is it is SUPER corrosive and attacks EVERYTHING so you would never want any of it laying inside motor or heads (leaking/malfunctioning injection system) and remember. stoic on it is around 6- 6.5-1 so IF you replace too much fuel with it and actually tune for it you will need ALOT, Smitty
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Old 12-23-2010, 06:59 AM
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It's cheaper to buy the meth straight in a 55 gal. drum and mix it yourself (if you choose to run a mix).

I've been using straight meth for many years in several vehicles and have never had any issues with corrosion in the engines or elsewhere. This includes spraying it in aluminum IC pipes and running it through the all aluminum Z06 and Viper engines. In fact if anything, not only have I never seen a hint of corrosion issues anywhere, but every time I've torn stuff down the inside of the everything looks extremely clean. I will admit that it is corrosive, but as long as your meth system is built correctly (hoses and O-rings are meth compatible), you should not have to worry about it at all.

To further prove the point, I had a failure in the system I did in the Viper. I moved the meth tank one day and fu@ked up by failing to install a spring loaded check valve in the system. The new location caused it to siphon 2.5 gal of straight meth into the IC pipes when I left the car sit. Well the car sat for about two months w/o use until I went to start it again. Let's just say it didn't start and it was a major PITA to drain all the meth out of everything, including both IC's and the engine (from when I went to start it). But the point I wanted to make is there was no sign of any corrosion in the aluminum IC's or anywhere else after having the straight meth sitting in there for months.

As far as stoich goes, yes it's different for meth. Meth is around 6.4:1. The best way is just read the lambda, but if you wanted to read a typical AF gauge that is calibrated to gas, you still can. Since stoich for meth is 6.4, an afr of 4.5 would be 4.5/6.4 = 0.7 lambda. And since the gauge is scaled for gasoline (stoich = 14.7), the gauge would read 0.7*14.7 = 10.3 afr when the methanol afr is really 4.5. Hopefully that makes sense. But again, that's for straight meth.

But when tuning with pump gas and spraying meth, you basically still tune to your traditional target (say 11:1 on a FI engine) since the meth is such a small portion of your overall fuel being supplied. I prefer to read the raw lambda data and shoot for around .75-.8 to be plenty safe under boost, but most people just tune to a AF gauge calibrated for gas and have no issues. Again, it doesn't take all that much meth to make a huge difference in lowering your IAT and drastically reduce detonation. I can't imagine it would be practical to spray so much meth that you had to actually tune for it rather than gas...
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Old 12-26-2010, 01:52 PM
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So who's running meth, water, or a mix injection on there marine engine(s)?
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