Hinge pin removal. Drill?? Any tips welcomed
#12
Registered
I used a sawzall with a 12" Milwaukee Torch blade...18~21 TPI Bi-Metal. Use cutting oil and a SLOW speed. The pins are stainless and HARD. Be careful in doing any thing or you will be replacing the Gimbal Ring and Skull (Helmet)....$$$
#13
Offshoreonly Advertiser
Offshoreonly Advertiser
I know it's too late, but when removing the pins use heat first to break down the Loctite. And don't be shy with the heat, need to get the bell housing pretty warm by the pin.
__________________
Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
Marc
www.mercruiserparts.com
www.go-fast.com
www.bammarine.com
www.cyborgtransmissions.com
It's not alive -www.BoatStuffExpress.com - temporarily retired
#14
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Jackson, Mississippi
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I figured you guys would watch this thread if I went at it with a stick welder. I'm thinking like mbam said, Need to be aggressive with heat and cool it, heat, cool. They were easy to drill, pins had a centering mark inside them. Sawsall good idea to get the bell off quick. Next time heat!, then if strip welding a nut onto pin. I know there must be a reason they red loctite these pins, but why? Are the senders not enough of a back up to keep the pins from screwing out? Starboard drive unbolt with no issues.