35fountain

I removed the valve cover and noticed the intake rocker on cylinder #2 was not sitting flush on the valve stem..I removed both intake and exhaust rockers and also noticed the pushrod was not aligned, seems like it was not centered in the pushrod hole . I loosened the rocker studs and moved the guide plates centered them over the pushrod hole and tightened again...Does this make sense?

Griff

Makes sense, but you really shouldn't be able to reposition a guide plate. The guide plate mounting holes should be the same size as the rocker stud bottom.

To check for the noise and simulate as if it was running, pull the spark plugs and disconnect the coil and turn the engine over with the starter.

35fountain

There was some left/right play in the guide plates..not much.. Since i'm taking all this apart AGAIN I might as well order some new rockers

Comp Cams RP1411-16 Steel rockers with roller tip
and high energy pushrods

What do you think ??

Boat1

I think the roller tip rockers are a good idea. You should measure the pushrod length to ensure the rocker tip is centered on the valve tip. Comp sells adjustable pushrods to measure the correct length, you will need two different lengths for intake and exhaust, or see if anyone has any you can borrow. The stamped rockers build alot of additional heat to the oil, the stamped rollers are a good mid-priced alternative. Centering the guide plates is also very important, yes they will move slightly. Be sure to use blue loctite and torque the studs to 55 ftlbs when they are positioned correctly. Good luck.

jeffswav

Everyone has given you great advice. As I was reading through the post I could not understand why you were still using stamped steel rockers. The crane golds are good, I use the comp pro magnum rockers. I would do the sharpie test and be sure you have the correct length pushrods. Like everyone said I have never heard anything like that before.

35fountain

Yes everyone here has been very helpful in trying to figure out my problem. As for the steel rockers, this is what was on the motors when i bought the boat..I never had a problem with them and i like the low profile style valve covers that i can remove without removing the exhaust.
This past winter is the first time i had the engines apart.
I changed the heads because a few exhaust ports sprung a water leak.. I have older posts from last year complaining about milky oil under valve covers... This is why...water entering engine. I do know the stainless intake and exhaust valves are 100 over.. Does this mean the pushrods need to be longer? I will measure them. What measurement should they be?

jeffswav

The Comp Cams rockers fit under stock covers. There is a article in Hot Rod magazine on how to check pushrod length with a sharpie (marker). Do a search for it it should be easy to find. I have the link somewere, RMbuilder turned me onto it when I did a roller cam a couple of years ago. I like the oversize pushrods if you need to get new ones. you would also need bigger guide plates.

35fountain

Ok, Just say my rockers aren't centered on the valve stem. Wouldn't something bad have happened by now? Last summer no noises..Changed the heads..swapped parts from old to new..now a noise..?

blaquebaja

Foutain I had the same problem years ago check your valve to see if they are bent. What mine was doing when the the valve was open and I shut the engine off the rocker arm was out of adjustment. the valve spring was closing the valve real slow (click... tick... etc) replaced bent valve noise went away. Hope this helps.

Boat1

Bent valves makes alot of sense. I assumed fresh heads meant they were assembled properly. Ass U Me d, new spelling for assumed. Good Luck.