You can see the pin . In the pic it is further up than the oiling hole.

http://s019.radikal.ru/i605/1710/ab/70722411aeb3.jpg

I start to take off engine parts on my way.

http://i075.radikal.ru/1710/a6/2a10ca2cf56c.jpg



http://s019.radikal.ru/i637/1710/6d/1a1b5b801475.jpg

shine a flashlight down distributor hole and have someone crank motor. or just turn it with a socket on the balancer bolt. you will be able to tell if cam gear is turning and see any spots with missing or damaged teeth. so, these are 350's. pull the exhaust manifolds and starter and you will be able to drop the oil pan and get timing cover off. you will need a balancer puller. you may not get pan out, but you can stick a shop vac wand in there and suck out most of the junk. may be able to do this without somebody removing the engine.

I don't know how much you can do. but all lifters and pushrods have to be removed before cam can be removed. and do you have roughly the length of the engine in front of the engine to slide cam out?

I used camera with light to see whats going inside. Found broken gear parts. Looking for magnet to catch and throw out .

Yep i have a same plan like u said.

I think its possible to take out oil pan. I have a large collection of tools..

If not i i will pull out engine with forklift in marina. This one isnt problem for me.

To pull out the engine it costs $75 but the thing is that i have to disconnect everything for this.. Trying to avoid headache..

pull the engine out,believe me you will be glad you did.

Thanks for advice.

By the way i can use boat upper construction for chane lift support.

As much as I try to talk people thru the leave-it-in-place method, if you can disconnect the transmissions and leave in place, this will be way easier not doing a head stand next to the engine to get down there. But sometimes you have to cut the coupler bolts and trans mounts can be salted up pretty good till they can't be unbolted. Then pulling engine-trans together could be a huge pain. But generally, you can support the trans from above, unbolt trans from engine and unbolt engine from front mounts leaving them in place. Also EVERY TIME you pull a shaft engine, you are supposed to do the feeler gauge thing getting engine-trans lined up to within a couple thousandths. But leaving all mounts untouched is your best bet at popping the motor back in and driving away. Worst case scenario if it don't feel right after putting it in the water, you use second engine to get up enough speed for running on 1 engine and rudder, and docking.