Originally Posted by dereknkathy (Post 4586634)

As much as I try to talk people thru the leave-it-in-place method, if you can disconnect the transmissions and leave in place, this will be way easier not doing a head stand next to the engine to get down there. But sometimes you have to cut the coupler bolts and trans mounts can be salted up pretty good till they can't be unbolted. Then pulling engine-trans together could be a huge pain. But generally, you can support the trans from above, unbolt trans from engine and unbolt engine from front mounts leaving them in place. Also EVERY TIME you pull a shaft engine, you are supposed to do the feeler gauge thing getting engine-trans lined up to within a couple thousandths. But leaving all mounts untouched is your best bet at popping the motor back in and driving away. Worst case scenario if it don't feel right after putting it in the water, you use second engine to get up enough speed for running on 1 engine and rudder, and docking.

Originally Posted by caldera (Post 4586637)

Question for experienced boat owners.

When u take out headers it needs special sanding alignment or it goes back without it?

Originally Posted by dereknkathy (Post 4586646)

Where are you from? Just for language barrier confusion. Now, headers. You don't have headers, only exhaust manifolds. They require some but not a lot of gasket face cleaning. Cylinder heads? You probably don't need to remove them, but they take a lot of cleaning-prepping before reinstallation. But rarely do they have to go to machine shop for resurfacing, which is what I think you mean. Now, you called these 454 mag engines. The picture shows a 260 hp 350 small block. Good motors. I thought a 27 fishing boat was a bit overpowered with 2 454 big blocks. Tried to look up your serial number. It didn't come up.

Originally Posted by SB (Post 4586650)

^^^^Engine pics are small blocks too. BTW: I clicked on one of his pics the other day and it goes to some Russian photo hosting sight. Stopped clicking on them just in case.