i had that happen once..was a shorted speaker....dissconnect all the speakers and turn the amp on..if it still does it then theres something internaly in the amp...if not then hook one speaker at a time till it happens again...and the last speaker you hooked up is probably shorted.

Exactly what he said, the only other thing would be battery voltage needs to be at leat 12+. Should really be closer tto 13V. The only other thing could be voltage of the remote turn on wire. Some amps are more sensitive than other when it relates to how they behave. This should also be at least 12V, you can jump the battery + terminal on the amp to the remote to rule this out.

How many subs? Are they DVC/SVC (Single voice coil or dual voice coil)? If you have more than 2 subs and the subs are wired in parrallel, you may be dropping the resistance too low and the amp may not be able to handle it. That is something to check too. A lot of amps are stable at 2ohms and going less could cause problems. You need to know the specs of the amps and subs, then wire them accordingly so you get the right resistance.

Truth be told most amps will turn on and run under 9 volts. A majority of the time your system is on its drawing enough to drop below 12vts. So with everything disconnected and only ground, remote turn on and positive connections hooked up. If the amp faults immediately the amps cashed out. Most of the time its the power array inside. Time for a new one. You can call the manufacture and send it back or take it back to the shop you purchased it at and they will exchange it for you. hope this helps.

amp was new and was a 600w two channel, speakers are 8in 1 1/2'' high temperature voice coil ,Frequency response: 25-2.5kHz. Speakers were hooked from speakers to AMP with positive to positive and negative to negative, they were daisy chained etc. The first time I turned the AMP on they gain was on Low and then went to midrange. The inline fuse for the power wire was one of those there you put stripped wire into it and clamp it down with an allen screw.

one question is it had a remot wire for the head unit which I wired and it a had a switch with looked like telephone wire cord for another remote.

The telephone looking plug is usually for a bass remote that connects to the amp.

Did you disconnect the subs and power up the amp to see if it kept power with no load on it?

I messed around with it again and think I fried it. Or its defective. I ordered a Sony Explod 600 W amp it will be here tomorrow. I will try that again and see whats going on.

4402, before you hook up the new amp I would use a multimeter and check the ohm load present at your sub wire leads. (If you haven't already done that) you could be walking down the same road to a blown up amp if its has been wired incorrectly or you have a shorted coil some were. This would only take two seconds to complete and would give you some answers as well. If you need some help pm me and I will walk you through it on the phone or email. JT

Especially on that Sony.. They haven't had the best track record for equipment and like the "protect" mode if the resistance on your sub setup is too low.

ok thanks. Yeah I got a meter. If you could PM me the steps. Like I said. The wires are brand new and + wire is on + pole of battery and like wise for - wire and pole. I had both battery switches switched to both.