lol im a dumby... i own one of those actually!!! my buddy works at kenworth and just got me an oil temp gauge and sender though.... and what exactly would be the issue if my motor was "too tight" because i have been hearing people say that it seems like it is really tight a lot!!!!

also as for the break in thats all i did for the first like 3 hours....

started with 1500 for 15 minutes let it cool
then 2000 for 20 minutes let it cool
ran it up to 3000 just to touch it then baack down to 2000 for 20 minutes then shut it down for the day

then went out and did some runs up to 3000 and back a few times held it around 3k for a while then let it cool down... started back up ran it up to 3500

finally about 2.5-3 hours worth of that i walked up to 3500 and then pinned it and it wouldnt go over 4200ish...

( i didnt touch the trim and thats with tabs up.... boat is a 95 mirage 217 with a bravo1 and a 25p mirage plus with a marine power 1998 502 that i carburated with a 800cfm 9022 holley and a dui, hei distributor and im "pretty sure" the timing is good)

too tight in the bearing clearances is a possibility. Not saying that is what's going on, could be that the bypass is plugged and running a h/p pump too. I'm no expert but high oil temp with high oil pressure at low rpm might be the bearings going. I really hope this is not your case. Your top rpm should be around 5k though. Might not hurt to cut open a filter to see what you see.

Carl--Youve got issues!! Your motor isnt making the power it should (4200 rpm with a 25p mirage+?? You need a 21p to get the RPM's where they should be and that means you are way down on power). Steaming oil? Blowby? Foaming power steering fluid? 100 psi oil pressure? Ive said it before and Ill say it again--Bring your Mirage to John at Eastside and tell him whats going on. He really does know his stuff! Most likely he can do the diagnostic while you wait so you can be apart of what he's looking at (he's done that for me before).
If your motor needs to come apart its better to figure that out now rather than later (Im sure you have a warranty since it was just built a few months ago).

--Are you sure you dont have a bad oil cooler? Was it new when you had the new motor built? The power steering cools off of that and if its bad or clogged it could cause alot of the problems you are encountering.

i think that is the plan as of right now..... im going to change the oil after work today and cut the filter open....

how do you suggest i get lower oil pressure? i understand im running delo400 on a fresh motor and when i saw the 80-100 number on a used pump i put a mechanical pump on it to findout the same thing?!?!?!? why is it so high? a guy at my race shop told me his motors on the same oil will run at 80 when new and 60ish at idle when broken in all season and he has never had a single issue ever.... thanks again let me know if you have any ideas....

you don't " make" lower oil pressure. oil pressure is a pure function of the assembly. the pump is a fixed volume device. every revolution moves "x" volume of oil. that oil volume goes into the mechanical assembly. the clearences built into that system bleed off volume "y"

the system pressure is the difference in those volumes and that was figured out at the factory when they defined the pump specs. thats why if you have cleaneces too small
( low bleed loss) you have extremely high oil pressures and if you have abnormally large clearences ( high bleed loss) you have low oil pressure. neither one is good or correct. having the correct clearences and the correct pump and the correct oil temp ( oil viscosity) will give you the oil pressure that is correct to keep the motor alive. which for a normally aspirated conventional run of the mill 4 or 500 hp big block is about 25 psi at 100o rpm w/ 220 deg oil and 50 to 60 at 5000 rpm with 220 degree oil.

thats why abnormally high numbers like you have are an indicator of something wrong. maybe something simple like the guy used the wrong spring in the relief valve or something or something catastrophic like the thing has clearences that squeak and you have already spun the mains. right now its just one symptom that needs to be addressed and identified. this isn't the time to take a chance. do the diagnostics in a simple direct and disciplined fashion until you find out exactly whats going on and let the eveidence speak for itself.

8th rule of engineering... " if it occurs to you that something might be wrong it almost always is. that's your subconcious being smarter than you are"

i was paricularly impressed by the suggestion here that you find out if its too tight by running it at high revs, presumably until it explodes and lights the boat on fire...

and i suppose, on the 4th of july with enough alcohol involved that might seem like a good idea...

I don't think it's a bearing clearance problem.

Ok well what he is saying does make sensE when the motor first went together it blew the gasket out of the oil filter that's why I got the hp4 to make up for that pressure.... But is the pressure from the mains or is it from the valve or cooler... I understand the psi this though Steve just like boost psi is a measurement of restriction

They shimmed the pressure relief spring in the oil pump.....

certainly possible... but why ? we aren't talking about some 900 inch blower motor making 2000 hp that needs that sort of film strength. you are talking about a box stock assy. all 100 psi does is heat up the oil and wear out the distributor drive and use up horsepower.

no upside at all... UNLESS they are trying to solve some issue that was self inflicted. it really doesn't matter. what does matter is that its wrong. the cause needs to be identified and fixed like all the other issues.

I didn't mean that it should have been shimmed. I just believe that the problem lies in that relief valve. I've never heard of a too tight engine creating too much oil pressure. The symptoms would be much worse. It probably would have barely cranked over if at all and would have wiped out the crank by now if it did manage to run. JMO but I worked as a heavy repair auto mechanic for 20 years.

From one Carl to another BTW.