Port mine..... Starboard yours...

It's not polished, I thought I would be seeing EFI by now. A set of XFI self tune with wide band, or something. Looks nice !

That looks good. You need to take the idler and move it as close to the blower pulley as you can, to get the most avail belt wrap you can.. I see your not running a IC. Meth, water Injection??

John jr

Yes I am running a IC ....A big one Right on top.... See the hoses?

Ok your is prettier..... MEFI winter project.... Struggle through the summer w/carbs

Excellent idea

It still looks great. Do you have any belt slip with the heavier bracket ?

Not sure...don't think so...
On dyno boost continues to climb all the way 6000 rpm, that is all we pulled to.

A follow up report on the blower idler, could never get Reichard racing to respond via the phone or email about grooving my upper pulleys, talked to a mustang street racer who told me that they only groove the pulleys for drag racing and at that point belts become a item that is replaced almost daily. I talked to scde performance about building me a better idler, they never got back with me. I ended up buying a m-5 tensioner and 2 more new belts thinking my problems would be solved. First road block was tensioner was so big that it was physically impossible to mount it on my main mounting bracket, built a intermediate bracket and mounted it, put new belt on and took boat to Hot boat weekend. It promptly shredded a new blower belt in 20 minutes AND would only make 9si of boost at best and as soon as belt got hot more like 4-5 psi, shimmed intermediate bracket out and installed another new belt, took 3-4 hours of running before it shredded belt down to 9 ribs AND would only make 7 psi of boost at best and 4-5 psi most of the time. Shimmed m-5 tensioner out even further in a attempt to keep belt from shredding and put my high boost pulley on and a shorter belt (ran out of belts that fit my normal one). Would still only make 4-7 psi of boost but belt didn't shred in 3-4 hours of run time. Just got around to trying to move forward today with this dilemma , pulled tensioner off boat, first marked the plunger though to have a reference of how deep it was and how much spring tension it had. Put in arbor press with a cheap spring checker, compressed it to my mark and guess what-120 psi of tension. I then mocked up my spare blower bracket and one of my junk m-3sc tensioners with the spring checker, with it tensioned about where it would be on the boat I am seeing 220 plus psi and even tighter before spring goes solid as much as 300 psi. I then dug thru every box of spare old valve springs and assorted parts and found every spring that was close to dimensions as springs in the m-5 tensioner. I found that 3 bbc inner valve springs stacked together in the tensioner along with 3 4l60e transmission pump priming springs was about physically the same length. I also found a short, stiff accumulator spring from a shift kit and added that to the bottom of the plunger. I now have about 220-240 psi of tension when I compress the m-5 tensioner to the same spot/mark. Looking at cnc's m-5 tensioner on HIS motors they are even further out of the plungers BUT the m-4/m-5 blowers use much LARGER upper pulleys so there is much more belt traction even with less spring/tension. Going to try it this weekend then leakdown the motor for the season and see if its time for a rebuild (just went over 100 hours). On a side note I also found mention of running (2) 6 rib belts in place of the hard to find 12 rib belts, I bought 2 6 rib greback fleet runner belts to try. I also found a 12 rib/64" fleetrunner belt for only 17$ and bought that to try although it will be VERY hard to get on being 1/2 inch shorter than my shortest belt. Will report results soon, Smitty

Hey Smitty, here's an engineered scale drawing of what I tried that seems to be working so far...

As others have stated if the bracket flexes it doesn't really matter what the tensioner's doing. Also, a little bit of detonation or valve float will kill the belt too.

The 500EFI procharger mounting bracket gives you more room and better routing so you can get much better wrap on the pulley.