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Quote:

Originally Posted by kvogt (Post 4490841)

You can activate the boost icf. Then in the safety setup use the switched trigger and select cut ignition. remember this actually act as a rev limiter at around 2500 rpm

I wish I could... Adding boost icf doesnt work on an NA motor because it forces you to use a different Map sensor (unless I'm completely missing something):

I just tried it with the Holley v4 software:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u...%2Bwarning.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3.../boost%2B2.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4490836)

With the daytona box, you can enable idle stabilization. You can add up to 20 degrees of advance with it, from your base setting, as long as it doesn't exceed your trigger timing. Example. Say your base timing in nuetral, at idle , is 16 degrees at 900RPM. You can set the idle stabilization, to say, 700RPM engagement, and when you shift into gear under load, the engine will now idle with 36* of timing while in gear (provided your trigger timing is 36 or higher). You can adjust the RPM that it kicks in as well. When data logging, you can clearly see idle stabilization doing its thing.

That's a great feature, I'm impressed you can load a map vs. rpm advance chart (just like full on EFI). The Daytona is definitely the way to go if you want CDI and reliable ignition unlike MSD. One big advantage of having coil packs versus a distributor (besides the obvious simplicity/less moving parts) is I don't have to worry about rotor phasing with a crank trigger. Otherwise, I can imagine the spark may not jump well in a 20 plus degree swing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tibbstoy2 (Post 4490858)

Select custom 2 bar. In the top row change the far left of the scale to 0 and the far right to 105. Higlight all cells in the row, right click and hit fill row values. Done.
It will give you a couple warnings when you do it, just hit yes or ok or whatever until they clear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HaxbySpeed (Post 4490914)

Thanks Alex, I will give that a try - pretty easy - sounds like that's common practice too. My plan is to use the Boost Safety setup to cut ignition for low/no oil pressure, low fuel pressure, high duty cycle, high coolant temp, and low voltage. I'll also tie a "warning output" aux wire to the rev limiter #1 input to create a limp mode at 1500 rpm for sensor ranges that are better than the cut ignition, where I'm not going to "hurt" anything, but shouldn't be on plane.

In case it helps anyone else, I Found this link illustrating it pretty well (except they were using 10kPa at 0V... I went with 0kPa since it made more sense and I also have different sensors selected per above...
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...php?p=53530538

Any thoughts on why my cranking fuel is so much lower? Or is 16 lbs/hr cold start normal? As mentioned earlier, other people have sent me files and they typically are 2x more... but just adding 10-20% more fuel and my engine is backfiring through the intake.

GM 10456288 10.5 khz Knock Sensor Sensitivity Setting

Anyone using GM 10456288 10.5 kHz knock sensors with Holley EFI? What is the sensitivity setting being used?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rage (Post 4548685)

Anyone using GM 10456288 10.5 kHz knock sensors with Holley EFI? What is the sensitivity setting being used?

I believe that is the knock sensor that Mercury used. I have them in my engines connected to AC Delco 216-47 control modules then to my Crane HI-6M's pulling timing when knock is detected. I scoured the internet looking at all different knock sensors. The 10456288 was the go to sensor the majority of people.

I'll have to look in my notes

I had zero luck with knock sensors on any of my LS stuff with my Dominator EFI.

I run without them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MER Performance (Post 4548972)

I'll have to look in my notes

Any luck?

Anyone use knock sensor

ACDelco 213-3521?