tinned wire
02-06-2012, 04:01 PM
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02-06-2012, 04:52 PM
#12
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Waytekwire.com
Check these out http://order.waytekwire.com/scategor...%20Connectors/
They are not only a connector but they are crimp/solder/heat shrink/sealed connectors. Just crimp the connector on the wire, hit it with a heat gun, the solder in the connector melts, the heat shrink-shrinks and the adhesive (like hot glue) inside the heat shrink melts. At the end of the process you have a crimped/soldered/heatshrinked/sealed connection that was quick and easy. I bought a couple of hundred various types and sizes of butt connectors and terminal ends and have used over half of them up for various projects. A little pricey but super easy and fast to use.
They are not only a connector but they are crimp/solder/heat shrink/sealed connectors. Just crimp the connector on the wire, hit it with a heat gun, the solder in the connector melts, the heat shrink-shrinks and the adhesive (like hot glue) inside the heat shrink melts. At the end of the process you have a crimped/soldered/heatshrinked/sealed connection that was quick and easy. I bought a couple of hundred various types and sizes of butt connectors and terminal ends and have used over half of them up for various projects. A little pricey but super easy and fast to use.
02-07-2012, 06:22 AM
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I have done several installs with Kunkonceptz and had good results.
Crimp with solder has worked well for me, no experience heat shrink.
If you look at the specs, they do a good job explaining the amp rating for each wire.
Kolossus is tinned OxyenFreeCopper (OFC). 1/0 is rated for 375amp at 20' for example. $3.95 per foot
The KCA is CopperCladAluminum (CCA). 1/0 is rated for 250amp at 20'. $1.95 per foot
90% Al, 10% Cu
The difference is Aluminum is cheaper than Copper but not as conductive. I dont know about the corrosion resistance of the CCA.
I would stick with the Kolossus tinned OFC myself. Dont know how big of a system you are considering but if there is any chance of upgrades down the road, bite the bullet and install 1/0 main power from the start. Really sucks and twice as expensive, going back in and redoing just because another amp was added later.
Have not seen the Genuinedeals before. Looks like thier cable may have a more durable jacket which might be a nice feature with bilge wiring but all of my stereo installs have been above deck and would not significantly benifit IMO.
A pair of cable shears/cutters slice though thick cable like butter. ($20-$30 at most hardware/box store) MUCH cleaner and faster than nipping and hacking with wire cutters.
example - http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/QUI...e-Cutter-5LMC5
Not sure what OP is asking with "blade connectors"?
I use ring terminals at the battery post and most better quality amps simply insert and screw down the wires.
Use a mini ANL fuse holder, mounted in a dry location. 90% of corrosion problems I have encountered have been at the fuse. Have yet to find a true "water proof" holder. Stay away from the AGU glass fuse type.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...Fuse%20Holders
Crimp with solder has worked well for me, no experience heat shrink.
If you look at the specs, they do a good job explaining the amp rating for each wire.
Kolossus is tinned OxyenFreeCopper (OFC). 1/0 is rated for 375amp at 20' for example. $3.95 per foot
The KCA is CopperCladAluminum (CCA). 1/0 is rated for 250amp at 20'. $1.95 per foot
90% Al, 10% Cu
The difference is Aluminum is cheaper than Copper but not as conductive. I dont know about the corrosion resistance of the CCA.
I would stick with the Kolossus tinned OFC myself. Dont know how big of a system you are considering but if there is any chance of upgrades down the road, bite the bullet and install 1/0 main power from the start. Really sucks and twice as expensive, going back in and redoing just because another amp was added later.
Have not seen the Genuinedeals before. Looks like thier cable may have a more durable jacket which might be a nice feature with bilge wiring but all of my stereo installs have been above deck and would not significantly benifit IMO.
A pair of cable shears/cutters slice though thick cable like butter. ($20-$30 at most hardware/box store) MUCH cleaner and faster than nipping and hacking with wire cutters.
example - http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/QUI...e-Cutter-5LMC5
Not sure what OP is asking with "blade connectors"?
I use ring terminals at the battery post and most better quality amps simply insert and screw down the wires.
Use a mini ANL fuse holder, mounted in a dry location. 90% of corrosion problems I have encountered have been at the fuse. Have yet to find a true "water proof" holder. Stay away from the AGU glass fuse type.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...Fuse%20Holders
02-07-2012, 06:49 AM
#14
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Check these out http://order.waytekwire.com/scategor...%20Connectors/
They are not only a connector but they are crimp/solder/heat shrink/sealed connectors. Just crimp the connector on the wire, hit it with a heat gun, the solder in the connector melts, the heat shrink-shrinks and the adhesive (like hot glue) inside the heat shrink melts. At the end of the process you have a crimped/soldered/heatshrinked/sealed connection that was quick and easy. I bought a couple of hundred various types and sizes of butt connectors and terminal ends and have used over half of them up for various projects. A little pricey but super easy and fast tTho use.
They are not only a connector but they are crimp/solder/heat shrink/sealed connectors. Just crimp the connector on the wire, hit it with a heat gun, the solder in the connector melts, the heat shrink-shrinks and the adhesive (like hot glue) inside the heat shrink melts. At the end of the process you have a crimped/soldered/heatshrinked/sealed connection that was quick and easy. I bought a couple of hundred various types and sizes of butt connectors and terminal ends and have used over half of them up for various projects. A little pricey but super easy and fast tTho use.
Either would be the only thing to use, completely seals the conection.
Also with US1 on crimpers, I have greenlee and ratcheting types, why have junk tools.
02-07-2012, 07:07 AM
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When I mentioned blade connectors, I was referring to the push on connectors that plug into the speakers. I ordered some from Waytek last night.
I think I'm going to order all the wire from Knukonceptz...1/0 Kolossus for power and Karma 12ga speaker wire.
System: All JL audio except for a Clarion 309 HU, M6600 and (2)M1700 amps, 3 M10IB subs, 3pairs of 7.7 component sets.
I think I'm going to order all the wire from Knukonceptz...1/0 Kolossus for power and Karma 12ga speaker wire.
System: All JL audio except for a Clarion 309 HU, M6600 and (2)M1700 amps, 3 M10IB subs, 3pairs of 7.7 component sets.
I have done several installs with Kunkonceptz and had good results.
Crimp with solder has worked well for me, no experience heat shrink.
If you look at the specs, they do a good job explaining the amp rating for each wire.
Kolossus is tinned OxyenFreeCopper (OFC). 1/0 is rated for 375amp at 20' for example. $3.95 per foot
The KCA is CopperCladAluminum (CCA). 1/0 is rated for 250amp at 20'. $1.95 per foot
90% Al, 10% Cu
The difference is Aluminum is cheaper than Copper but not as conductive. I dont know about the corrosion resistance of the CCA.
I would stick with the Kolossus tinned OFC myself. Dont know how big of a system you are considering but if there is any chance of upgrades down the road, bite the bullet and install 1/0 main power from the start. Really sucks and twice as expensive, going back in and redoing just because another amp was added later.
Have not seen the Genuinedeals before. Looks like thier cable may have a more durable jacket which might be a nice feature with bilge wiring but all of my stereo installs have been above deck and would not significantly benifit IMO.
A pair of cable shears/cutters slice though thick cable like butter. ($20-$30 at most hardware/box store) MUCH cleaner and faster than nipping and hacking with wire cutters.
example - http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/QUI...e-Cutter-5LMC5
Not sure what OP is asking with "blade connectors"?
I use ring terminals at the battery post and most better quality amps simply insert and screw down the wires.
Use a mini ANL fuse holder, mounted in a dry location. 90% of corrosion problems I have encountered have been at the fuse. Have yet to find a true "water proof" holder. Stay away from the AGU glass fuse type.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...Fuse%20Holders
Crimp with solder has worked well for me, no experience heat shrink.
If you look at the specs, they do a good job explaining the amp rating for each wire.
Kolossus is tinned OxyenFreeCopper (OFC). 1/0 is rated for 375amp at 20' for example. $3.95 per foot
The KCA is CopperCladAluminum (CCA). 1/0 is rated for 250amp at 20'. $1.95 per foot
90% Al, 10% Cu
The difference is Aluminum is cheaper than Copper but not as conductive. I dont know about the corrosion resistance of the CCA.
I would stick with the Kolossus tinned OFC myself. Dont know how big of a system you are considering but if there is any chance of upgrades down the road, bite the bullet and install 1/0 main power from the start. Really sucks and twice as expensive, going back in and redoing just because another amp was added later.
Have not seen the Genuinedeals before. Looks like thier cable may have a more durable jacket which might be a nice feature with bilge wiring but all of my stereo installs have been above deck and would not significantly benifit IMO.
A pair of cable shears/cutters slice though thick cable like butter. ($20-$30 at most hardware/box store) MUCH cleaner and faster than nipping and hacking with wire cutters.
example - http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/QUI...e-Cutter-5LMC5
Not sure what OP is asking with "blade connectors"?
I use ring terminals at the battery post and most better quality amps simply insert and screw down the wires.
Use a mini ANL fuse holder, mounted in a dry location. 90% of corrosion problems I have encountered have been at the fuse. Have yet to find a true "water proof" holder. Stay away from the AGU glass fuse type.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...Fuse%20Holders
02-07-2012, 03:49 PM
#16
Charter Member
I use Knukonceptz only for my stereo speaker wires. Can't beat the price and super fast delivery. Has a very high strand count which means very flexible. Don't let the pictures fool ya, The jacket on their wire is insanely thick. Good for abrasion proof, but the heavy soft jacket made it a PITA to run. Very sticky.
Use tinned copper.
The junction blocks are a no frills items. Not a fan of chrome plated blocks.
Use tinned copper.
The junction blocks are a no frills items. Not a fan of chrome plated blocks.
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Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
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Last edited by US1 Fountain; 02-07-2012 at 03:51 PM.
02-12-2012, 09:05 AM
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Thanks for posting this source...I ordered some and they are great...very nice product!
ALso, ended up getting the knukonceptz wire (1/0) and WOW! this is some serious stuff, I didn't realize it when I ordered, but the 1/0 is actually oversized and will not fit in a 1/0 connector without some trimming. Has a 5145 strand count...this is some flexible stuff and has an amperage rating of 375 Amps!
ALso, ended up getting the knukonceptz wire (1/0) and WOW! this is some serious stuff, I didn't realize it when I ordered, but the 1/0 is actually oversized and will not fit in a 1/0 connector without some trimming. Has a 5145 strand count...this is some flexible stuff and has an amperage rating of 375 Amps!
Check these out http://order.waytekwire.com/scategor...%20Connectors/
They are not only a connector but they are crimp/solder/heat shrink/sealed connectors. Just crimp the connector on the wire, hit it with a heat gun, the solder in the connector melts, the heat shrink-shrinks and the adhesive (like hot glue) inside the heat shrink melts. At the end of the process you have a crimped/soldered/heatshrinked/sealed connection that was quick and easy. I bought a couple of hundred various types and sizes of butt connectors and terminal ends and have used over half of them up for various projects. A little pricey but super easy and fast to use.
They are not only a connector but they are crimp/solder/heat shrink/sealed connectors. Just crimp the connector on the wire, hit it with a heat gun, the solder in the connector melts, the heat shrink-shrinks and the adhesive (like hot glue) inside the heat shrink melts. At the end of the process you have a crimped/soldered/heatshrinked/sealed connection that was quick and easy. I bought a couple of hundred various types and sizes of butt connectors and terminal ends and have used over half of them up for various projects. A little pricey but super easy and fast to use.
02-12-2012, 10:32 AM
#18
What I've noticed is with that very high strand count, once you cut the jacket back, the strands like to uncompress, open up a bit, making it hard to insert the wire into the connectors.
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
