Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
How do you initially time a BB before startup? >

How do you initially time a BB before startup?

Notices

How do you initially time a BB before startup?

Thread Tools
 
Old 09-16-2012, 09:59 AM
  #1  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default How do you initially time a BB before startup?

Hey OSO,
Sorry if there is a thread about this question already but I am new to the boating world (2 yrs) just bought a newly rebuild 540ci BB which I'm about to have put on the dyno, but before I do, I need to know how to set timing before I install the distributor. I need to know where distributor needs to be pointing and where TDC is etc. Thanks in advance.
Tommybaja is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 10:25 AM
  #2  
Registered
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
Posts: 6,306
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default fixx

Originally Posted by Tommybaja
Hey OSO,
Sorry if there is a thread about this question already but I am new to the boating world (2 yrs) just bought a newly rebuild 540ci BB which I'm about to have put on the dyno, but before I do, I need to know how to set timing before I install the distributor. I need to know where distributor needs to be pointing and where TDC is etc. Thanks in advance.
dont know how everyone else does it but i will set the timing on the harmonic ballancer to 8* btdc then line up the rotor with #1 cylinder...you will have to mark the side of the dis with a paint stick or marker where the #1 is on the cap..
FIXX is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 10:35 AM
  #3  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mrfixxall
dont know how everyone else does it but i will set the timing on the harmonic ballancer to 8* btdc then line up the rotor with #1 cylinder...you will have to mark the side of the dis with a paint stick or marker where the #1 is on the cap..
Yes I think I remember that part. I just forget which marking is 8*. each notch is 2? If I'm not mistaken? Clockwise correct?
Tommybaja is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 10:49 AM
  #4  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: sint maarten
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tommybaja
Yes I think I remember that part. I just forget which marking is 8*. each notch is 2? If I'm not mistaken? Clockwise correct?
you should not simply assume your balancer marks and pointer are correct. use a positive stop method to identify top dead center on the balancer and pointer as they exist. then measure the circumfrence of the balancer using a narrow tape, divide that number by 360 and thats the radial distance per degree...multiply that number by the number of degrees you want marks for and mark ( or confirm) your balancer appropriately. they sell timing tapes for this at your local speed shop but knowing your tdc mark and pointer are correct is critical at this point.
stevesxm is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:07 AM
  #5  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That's exactly what I needed. Thanks so much for your input.
Tommybaja is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 04:11 PM
  #6  
GPM
Registered
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pa
Posts: 2,660
Received 78 Likes on 56 Posts
Default

You might want to pump some oil through the motor prior to dropping the distributor in. And make sure the motor is on number 1 not 6.
GPM is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 05:46 PM
  #7  
Registered
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Between A Womans Leggs in IL
Posts: 6,306
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default fixx

Originally Posted by stevesxm
you should not simply assume your balancer marks and pointer are correct. use a positive stop method to identify top dead center on the balancer and pointer as they exist. then measure the circumfrence of the balancer using a narrow tape, divide that number by 360 and thats the radial distance per degree...multiply that number by the number of degrees you want marks for and mark ( or confirm) your balancer appropriately. they sell timing tapes for this at your local speed shop but knowing your tdc mark and pointer are correct is critical at this point.
If you really want to get that technical!!....if you really want to get into it then you need to remove the cylinder head and put a dial indication the top of the piston,,first install a degree wheel,next try and find top dead center by eye,next put your breaker bar and the rite size socket and move the crankshaft clockwise and counter clockwise or until you find TDC next put the timing pointer at zero on your degree wheel,now compare the timing pointer on the harmonic ballancer,if its off any * your going to have to adjust it to zero..next if you have advanced timing marks on your ballancer then great,now compare the timing marks on the ballancer with the degree wheel,if their off then your going to have to mark the ballancer and put your own * on it..if you have no marks what so ever thenyou can cut your own in with a dremil and the tiny cutoff wheel blade but go lite..i mark them @ 26* to 36*...2* increments.
FIXX is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 06:50 PM
  #8  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mrfixxall
If you really want to get that technical!!....if you really want to get into it then you need to remove the cylinder head and put a dial indication the top of the piston,,first install a degree wheel,next try and find top dead center by eye,next put your breaker bar and the rite size socket and move the crankshaft clockwise and counter clockwise or until you find TDC next put the timing pointer at zero on your degree wheel,now compare the timing pointer on the harmonic ballancer,if its off any * your going to have to adjust it to zero..next if you have advanced timing marks on your ballancer then great,now compare the timing marks on the ballancer with the degree wheel,if their off then your going to have to mark the ballancer and put your own * on it..if you have no marks what so ever thenyou can cut your own in with a dremil and the tiny cutoff wheel blade but go lite..i mark them @ 26* to 36*...2* increments.
I don't want to take the head off. I will however make marks like you stated. I think it's a good idea. Thanks.
Tommybaja is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 06:56 PM
  #9  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: sint maarten
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tommybaja
I don't want to take the head off. I will however make marks like you stated. I think it's a good idea. Thanks.
and there is no need. the positive stop method is the best way even with the head off. it eliminates any question of piston dwell at tdc. you simply " stop" the piston some small amount before TDC with the stop, mark the pulley and wind the motor backwards to the stop and mark the pulley. the center point between the two marks is TDC +/- 0
stevesxm is offline  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:13 PM
  #10  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by stevesxm
and there is no need. the positive stop method is the best way even with the head off. it eliminates any question of piston dwell at tdc. you simply " stop" the piston some small amount before TDC with the stop, mark the pulley and wind the motor backwards to the stop and mark the pulley. the center point between the two marks is TDC +/- 0
Motor is going on the dyno in 2 weeks. I will do exactly as you stated before startup and throw a light on it after we get it fired up. You think 8* initial is good for BB?
Tommybaja is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.