I agree. Also, you will see some amp's output measured at 14.4 Volts, some at 12.5 (mostly the higher end amps). Who gets 14.4 volts even with the motors running. 13.6-13.7 is more realistic.

Funny how years ago, when car audio was huge, Amps built here in the U.S.A, typically made much more power than their claim was. Now, its totally opposite. There was a lot of quality in the amp's of 20 years ago.

Ok, do I not need a pair of these (one for each side) to get the auxilary batteries charged? I'll be going from two to four batteries.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COLE-HERSEE-...&forceRpt=true

I have no idea why you would think you would need anything. There are thousands and thousands of single engine boats are there running twin batteries at the same time with no issues, meaning two batteries in parallel on either engine of your boat will be just fine. As long as you are using lead acid batteries.

I would however suggest upgrading your on board charger to a 4 bank, but it is not a top prority either.

A periodic batter load test of each battery is a good idea, maybe 3 times a season when you check the water level. Unhook from each other when doing this test.

No isolater needed

Like the others said, no it is not necessary.
An isolator is simply an automaic perko switch. You have two motors and two separate battey banks. Normally, you will start each engine off its respective battery bank and it will charge that bank.
For example - Starboard engine would normally charge the stereo and all pannel electrical. Port would only support the second reserve starting battery.
There may be a case where you have coved which discharged the stereo bank and are going to move a distance, you might choose to switch the port engine to direct alternator charging to the stereo bank thus charging faster, then remember to switch back over upon arrival. An isolator would do this automatically. At most, you would only need one.

Just to be clear, if you have 4 batteries; I would have two banks, 3 and 1.
More than 3 batteries and an upgraded alternator to 120amps+ would be advisable due to the load 3+ discharged batteries will draw. Stronger alt is necessary to not burn up at low rpm = low amperage output since boats often idle the first 5-15 min as the boat warms and navigates out of the cove / dock.

Assuming your switches can be changed between banks while running (most can), power wires and switches are set up properly; you might even choose to simply run both motors off the stereo bank primarily and only switch if the stereo bank has been too depleted to start motors. This throws maximum charge of both alts to the stereo bank. You may also be suprised how much easier and faster your motors turn over at start with 3x the amperage working for you. Included in the assumption is both banks are pluged in regularly to keep the reserve "start" battery charged as well as the stereo bank.

So how did your stereo turn out?

If you go with this soundstream amp talked about above and put in 6x9 speakers, how many watts should they be and what make do you suggest? Also two way or three speakers? As far as subs thinking 10" how many watts should they be and what make is suggested?

There are many variables in your question but.....

http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProd...rs/rubicon.htm
Using the Rubicon 800.5 with 6x9 may not work as well if full power the the 6x9 is desired. 6x9 can usually handle more power than the 6.5 used in 4-bus install.
Amp is rated 115w x 4ch at 2ohm. 8 6x9 would be huge off that amp. 4 speakers would show it a 4ohm load at 70w each which might not be bad.
A person might be able to bridge and show it a 2ohm load yeilding about 350w x 2 which would be plenty strong for 4 6x9. It is not rated but looks to be dooable according to 4bus discription of heat tollarance.

2-way, 3-way, whatever best meets power handling needs. There is no big difference on the cheap end.

Subs, again that Rubicon, is technically not rated for 1ohm as installed but it should be putting out 500+w so a pair of 4ohm dual voice coil subs in the 250-300w each would work.
Kicker's 10" CompD from the current line, or VR or VX from the older series. The standard Comp is unaccepable weak in power handling and sound created IMO.

You are really going at it backwards. Build a sound system from the speakers then decide on necessary amps; taking into consideration how a specific speaker brand sounds with a specific amp brand. Then build back to wiring, batteries and charging. If you have fixed equipment a certain points then that becomes a limiting factor and compromise results.

Yeah the old Soundstream Amps are the Bomb.
 

I saved my old Sound Stream Van Gogh Amps for my boat. I have a 500.4 and 800.5. These are Class AB amps and let me tell you, everyone who knows these amps understands how bad ass they are. I know when my friends get on my boat they are floored how clean the sound is and how loud my system is. My IDMax subs hit hard and clean, I always tell my friends to keep their drinks in their cup holders!! For old school amps that don't owe me a cent, I would buy any old school Sound Stream before buying the new stuff sold today, and it is at a fraction of the cost. These amps still blow away any JL audio HD amp out there in sound quality and also in pure output. I have everything hooked up to my Alpine CDA-118M. It sounds awesome. I like music to be clean with no distortion or coloration. These amps are a SQ amp for sure but at the same time they have loads of power. They work great with the Alpine head unit.

Sound Stream Van Gogh specs :cool-smiley-026:

Power Bandwidth 10 Hz - 50 kHz
Total Harmonic Distortion < 0.02 %
S/N Ratio 115dB
Input Sensitivity 0.15~12.0 Volts
Input Impedance 10k Ohms
Load Impedance (stereo) 2 - 8 Ohms
Load Impedance (bridged) 4 - 8 Ohms
Supply Voltage 11 - 15 Volts
Damping Factor >500

VGA500.4
4ohm 125w X 4ch
2ohm 250w X 4ch
4ohm Mono 500w x 2ch

VGA800.5
4ohm 50w X 4ch 200w x 1 Sub
2ohm 100w X 4ch 400w X 1 Sub
4ohm Mono 200w x 2ch 400 x 1 Sub

I have two Image Dynamics IDMax 10" subs bridged off the 500.4 amp
I have 4 x 6.5 Image Dynamics component XS-64 coaxials, with the crossovers mounted under my rear bench seat for the two rear speakers and the two fronts are hid under my helm and passenger area with the speakers mounted in custom kick panels made for the side of my boat cockpit.

I have the last channel on the 800.5 running a 12" IDMax sub in the cuddy in ported sub box.

There is one thing I did that in my experience is a must with system like this. The alternator has to be top notch, and I mean not 75 or 95 amps either. I put a 185 amp DC Power alternator in my boat and I am running two XS Power XP3000
12-Volt Deep Cycle AGM Power Cells with 3000 Max Amps per battery. I can play my system all day and it still has plenty left over. Once again don't skimp on the batteries and always try to get a better alternator if you can.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictu...&picture_id=-1

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...er-XP3000.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-VGA800.5.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-VGA500.4.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictu...&picture_id=-1

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...SearchClickout[query_id]=15844349&SearchClickout[Ignore]=1#tabs

Can't wait to get out on the water again, winter sucks.

As a side note. I use to be a die hard Boston Acoustics fan for there component speakers and subs. My FJCruiser had a Single BA G5 12-44 in a sealed enclosure and when I swapped it out for the IDMax 12. I had no idea just how much better they were than the Boston Sub's. Boston makes great subs, even back to their Pro LF series. But Image Dynamics sounded a lot better and go way lower than the Boston's did.

I have tried subs from Alpine, JL, Infinity and Boston. You either like bass that is noise or you like bass that Is clean and goes very low. Everyone has different tastes but sorry JL is really good but they are way over priced.

old school soundstream amps=bad a$$

Update?

Been a long winter! ;)

SO I have purchased just about everything, but havent installed it yet. Its still white up here in the north and ive been busy sledding and skiing for the winter!

But this is what Ive compiled so far.

-2 12" Kicker square subs (the high end ones)
-Custom ported MDF box that is fiberglassed and will fit under my rear seat
-1 set of Rockford Fosgate 10" 3 way speakers
-1 set of Polk audio 6501 MM components
-Those super tweeters 4 bus mentioned

Stilll need another set of highs to run off the mid amp. Was thinking another set of Polks.

Much to the dismay of other ppl, I also bought:
-MB quart Onyx 1600 watt mono amp
-MB quart 1000 x 4 amp for the mids and highs

Bought a 0guage dual amp wiring kit too and a Sony Marine head unit with wired remote.