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fixx
Do you have H beam rods? Also i would not use them unless you have H beam rods,,that's what the H stands for..you also are running a cast crankshaft and the h series bearings are too hard for the crank and will ware on it..The coated bearings, you best mic the crank first,the coating adds a .0001+ oil clearance,in other words they are tight and could cause issues.
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3840777)
Do you have H beam rods? Also i would not use them unless you have H beam rods,,that's what the H stands for..you also are running a cast crankshaft and the h series bearings are too hard for the crank and will ware on it..The coated bearings, you best mic the crank first,the coating adds a .0001+ oil clearance,in other words they are tight and could cause issues.
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The "H" stands for High Performance as you can see in the Clevite part number key on Jegs. Their the one you would want. They do have a "HK" which has a moly/graphite coating. Here's a cut/paste about them.
The exclusive CleviteŽ TriArmor™ engine bearings feature the industry’s only moly/graphite treatment. This sophisticated blend, in a low friction PTFe polymer base, offers extraordinary protection and lubricity. Enhanced wear characteristics increase bearing life in race engines and high performance street engines. Now, high performance engine builders can enjoy the strength and durability of the legendary CleviteŽ TriMetal™ bearing construction coupled with the latest in coating technology - right out of the box. For years, engine builders have experimented with coating engine bearings for race engines and high performance street engines, with varying degrees of success. Now, MAHLE engineers, after extensive research and development, have devised TriArmor™, a proprietary blend of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and graphite all carried in an inert polymer substrate. Central to this breakthrough is the exclusive use of graphite and unique application and low temperature cure processes. These processes provide extremely uniform thickness coupled with unparalleled adhesion, all while protecting the metallurgical integrity of the bearing during the coating procedure. The result? A .0003” thick protective coating that offers: * Reduced friction and drag, resulting in increased horsepower * Protection during start-up * Embedability to resist damage from debris * Ability to withstand extreme temperatures and pressures * Conformability for distressed or imperfect surfaces * Extraordinary strength and durability Looking back it sounds like the HK is what your builder was talking about. |
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Thanks for the info, Jim. Wow, those HK coated bearing are pricey! Cheapest set of mains I could find run $130. Is the extra money for the coating worth it?
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Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 3840846)
Wow, Is the extra money for the coating worth it?
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fixx
Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 3840780)
I'm running the Eagle I-beam cap screw rods, not H-beam. I was under the impression that the H-series bearings were recommended for most of the aftermarket cranks because they have the larger chamfer for the bigger fillet radius that is common on the aftermarket cranks. As long as there is a good oil film why would it make a difference whether the crank is cast or forged? Can you elaborate? If a lot of junk went through the bearings, I could see where a softer bearing would spare the crank surface, but otherwise it doesn't make sense to me. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 3840780)
I'm running the Eagle I-beam cap screw rods, not H-beam. I was under the impression that the H-series bearings were recommended for most of the aftermarket cranks because they have the larger chamfer for the bigger fillet radius that is common on the aftermarket cranks. As long as there is a good oil film why would it make a difference whether the crank is cast or forged? Can you elaborate? If a lot of junk went through the bearings, I could see where a softer bearing would spare the crank surface, but otherwise it doesn't make sense to me. Thanks.
I like the coated bearings and always use them, when you have fails they can save you, I had a fail, cracked a cylinder wall and contaminated the oil with lots of water, did ZERO damage to bearings and actually reused them and 5 years later all is well, they had looked like they were never ran... |
Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 3840846)
Thanks for the info, Jim. Wow, those HK coated bearing are pricey! Cheapest set of mains I could find run $130. Is the extra money for the coating worth it?
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I am not a pro but I thought the H stood for hardened? I am building a nice 4 bolt forged 454 now and will use the clevite H series bearings..... Our boat motors really need the extra toughness and resistance to fatgigue, heat, etc, as they are run under high loads for long times....... I think using the H series is cheap insurance for just a little more money...... I would certainly get the advice of an experienced marine engine builder..... TBF
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