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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 3840944)
your right, does not matter what rods, and does not matter forged vs. cast crank, I love when the non engine builder guys chime in since both of them answers were wrong... the oil film is between crank and bearing, in reality they never touch...I have cast cranks with coated H-series on rods and mains..my rods are also forged 420 rods.
I like the coated bearings and always use them, when you have fails they can save you, I had a fail, cracked a cylinder wall and contaminated the oil with lots of water, did ZERO damage to bearings and actually reused them and 5 years later all is well, they had looked like they were never ran... |
H Series - Best to start with when unsure which bearing to choose
Medium level of eccentricity and high crush Enlarged chamfers for greater crankshaft fillet clearance Made without flash plating for better seating Use with crankshafts that have oversized fillets Use with engines that run mid-high RPM range Contact patterns should ideally cover 2/3 to 3/4 of the bearing surface P Series Typically the greatest level of eccentricity Rods and mains have high crush for maximum retention Most are fully grooved to maximize oil flow to rod bearings Reduced overlay thickness to prevent overlay fatigue Use where extremely high RPMs cause severe rod bore close-in Use where higher eccentricity is desired to narrow bearing contact patterns V Series - This series essentially duplicates Clevite's former Vandervell parts Typically low to medium eccentricity Not available with oversized chamfers No flash plating on the steel back All Clevite main bearing sets use a single-piece thrust bearing Narrowed parts available to accommodate increased crankshaft fillet clearance Lead-indium overlay offers slightly better conformability -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part Number Key H - High-Performance HD - High-Performance bearing with dowel hole HK - High-Performance bearing with moly/graphite coating P - Standard Clevite 77 tri-metal bearing N - High-Performance Narrowed for greater crankshaft fillet clearance HG - High-Performance full angular grooved bearing V - High-Performance with Lead Indium overlay (On Main Sets this indicates partial groove also) VG - High-Performance with Lead Indium full angular grooved bearing D - Bearing has a dowel hole K - Tri-Armor coated bearing X - Bearing has .001 more oil clearance than standard XX - Bearing has .002 more oil clearance than standard A or AL - Indicates Aluminum bearing material |
fixx
Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 3840944)
your right, does not matter what rods, and does not matter forged vs. cast crank, I love when the non engine builder guys chime in since both of them answers were wrong... the oil film is between crank and bearing, in reality they never touch...I have cast cranks with coated H-series on rods and mains..my rods are also forged 420 rods.
I like the coated bearings and always use them, when you have fails they can save you, I had a fail, cracked a cylinder wall and contaminated the oil with lots of water, did ZERO damage to bearings and actually reused them and 5 years later all is well, they had looked like they were never ran... Its guys like you that hide behind their keyboard making smart azz comments to pizz off people like me.... ok back to the trand and sorry for the cork screw.. |
Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3841265)
Excuse me?? i dont make it a habbit of calling myself a pro engine builder............sorry i mistook the letter in question and yes i use the hk bearing in the race engines with the alunimum rods...ALL the pro engine builders i know wont use a h style bearing on a cast crank PERIOD...
Its guys like you that hide behind their keyboard making smart azz comments to pizz off people like me.... ok back to the trand and sorry for the cork screw.. |
fixx
Originally Posted by HaxbySpeed
(Post 3841276)
I think you mean HD...
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Originally Posted by mrfixxall
(Post 3841265)
Excuse me?? i dont make it a habbit of calling myself a pro engine builder............sorry i mistook the letter in question and yes i use the hd bearing in the race engines with the alunimum rods...ALL the pro engine builders i know wont use a h style bearing on a cast crank PERIOD...
Its guys like you that hide behind their keyboard making smart azz comments to pizz off people like me.... ok back to the trand and sorry for the cork screw.. |
Originally Posted by Budman II
(Post 3841035)
Force, when you say you are using the H-series, are you running the HK, or just the regular H? Apparently there is a misconception as to which ones actually have the graphite coating on them. They have to have the "K" suffix on the part number to be coated. FWIW, my engine builder replied and said that he always runs the regular H-series bearings and has never had an issue with them.
I am a firm believer since I have had water contamination and they saved me, that extra coating helps when things go bad...regular is also fine, but I have the preferance of coated since thay have saved me a crank... |
If you order a rotating assembly from just about anywhere, if you get a cast crank, you don't get H series bearings. Forged cranks, you do. Cast come with P series, standard King, etc. Forged come with H series, King Alecular race bearings etc.
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/scatsr-chevybbcast.html http://www.rpmmachine.com/scat-strok...0hp-2pcrs.html John Lingenfelters thoughts on this.... http://books.google.com/books?id=GUC...kshaft&f=false |
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Originally Posted by Full Force
(Post 3841367)
Maybe one of the pro builders can shed some light... |
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