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Um, not being a smart ass BUP. But how would the metal, if any, from pumching a hole in the filter get past the paper filter eliment? Thats what it dose, it stops stuff from getting into the engine???????
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well I will tell you - the center of the filter ( is the oil outlet hole in the filter - punch anywhere around dead center or off dead center a bit and that is the outlet area for oil flow, punch hard enough and deep enough you can go right thru the inner end cap of the filter as well.
Also Fram uses carboard end caps very easy to punch thru that. It is not hard to punch all way the thru with a hammer and screw driver if hit hard enough. Oil filters and spin on fuel filters work - the fluid enters from the very outside (small holes ) passes thru the filter media and then flows out the bigger center hole. Also punch a hole hitting the paper filter media or tear it and guess what no more filter media in that area so anything can drain (pass thru) thru that area.. You can do this with a new filter and then cut it upon to verify what I am talking about. |
That would be quite the metal magic trick to make it past the filter with pressure much less without any pressure.
Unless said mechanic used some stupid excessive force I`m just seeing mercury using excuses to not warranty an engine |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4361772)
well I will tell you - the center of the filter ( is the oil outlet hole in the filter - punch anywhere around dead center or off dead center a bit and that is the outlet area for oil flow, punch hard enough and you can go right thru the inner end cap of the filter as well. Also Fram uses carboard end caps very easy to punch thru that. It is not hard to punch all way the thru with a hammer and screw driver.
Oil filters and fuel filters work - the fluid enters from the very outside (small holes ) passes thru the filter media and then flows out the bigger center hole. Also punch a hole hitting the paper filter media or tear it and guess what no more filter media in that area so anything can drain (pass thru) thru that area.. You can do this with a new filter and then cut it upon to verify what I am talking about. |
I can send you pics exactly what I am talking about with a new oil filter and I bet I can punch right thru dead center with a phillips screwdriver and using my hand as the punch or push extremely hard. talking about off the shelf oil filters or even the marine OEM oil filters except Yamaha 4 stroke oil filters.
Before doing the oil change - the deal is unscrew the upside down oil filter enough but just to the point where oil does not leak out. Wait about 1 to 3 hours and the oil filter will be completely empty. I have been doing this since the upside down oil filters came out for all marine engines. Anyways all spin on oil filters are going to be a thing of the past coming very soon for the marine end anyways. Volvo Penta gas side of the coin has been using for all their apps drop in oil filter cartiridges since 2010. They (Volvo) have not used a spin oil filter in years - all drop in filters. so simple and no mess ever. Volvo locates the drop in oil filter housing mainly almost top front port side of the engine. the EPA has been looking into this as well - getting rid of the spin on oil filters because they hold more oil that gets buried into the ground or however they thrown away compare to the open drop in oil filters cartiridges. |
I will give you 10 to one odds taking a brand new oil filter out the box off the shelf and I punch a hole dead center straight thru with a small Phillips screwdriver and very small hammer without that much force, and one hit. I will set it on the ground just like it would be installed on engine and one hit.
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Originally Posted by relaxalot
(Post 4358655)
Update at 403 hours.... no problems runs perfect. I just ran it last weekend 94 mph without pushing it. No oil consumption, no noise. BUT.... I decided based to do a head rebuild over the winter. I know that at a minimum I need valve springs but since I want to be preventative I am rebuilding the heads entirely. I thought about changing the cam but decided against it. The boat is plenty fast and runs strong. I don't need to manage more torque through the drive. In summary I have had a whipple stage 2 running this motor for over 300 hours with no problems. I would say the max rpm that I ran is 5800... 5900. I am trying to get 7 more years out of the motor without a complete rebuild. That would put me at 750 to 800 hours. What do you guys think? Am I wasting money ? Or being wise?
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Originally Posted by relaxalot
(Post 4370251)
Update.. I decided to pull the pan, machine the block, new bearings,new cam, lifters, rocker arms, exhaust valves, springs, bolts, cometic gaskets. The work is being done by Absolute Speed and Marine in Lake Havasu. They also sent the supercharger back for a rebuild by whipple. They are also detailing out the engine compartment and a few minor fix ups on the Howard. I have a lot of confidence in them. I should be good for a few more summers with a new breath of life in this motor.
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