johnnyboatman

iTrader: (5)

teh upper swivel shaft seal appears to be seaping is there a easy fix or is it as hard as is looks like its going to be

Tinkerer

worse--unless you want to drill and tap holes in the top of your gimbal housing. You have to pull the drive assembly and the engine.

SteveDavid

Unfortunately you have to remove the outdrive and the transom shield to get the gimbal out and reach the seal. It's a cheap steel seal but expensive to replace because of the time involved to get to it and put it back together. When you do this, consider having the mounting area machined deeper and install a better seal. Johnny and Mike at TNT performance in Miami have a system for doing this that makes the replacement pretty bullet proof. It might be worth your while to ship it to them for the proper fix.

Older Bravo's had a grease fitting that kept the seal alive. The newer models, not sure beginning when, eliminated the fitting. I just replaced the one on my center drive as it's just below the waters surface most of the time.

If yours' has been leaking for a while, there may be a chance that the landing area is so corroded that you'll need a new gimbal. Now, isn't that just what you wanted to hear

Good luck, hope it's just a seal.

Steve

razor1115

Merc is also very proud of this pin... I know it's heat treated but geez...something like $275. The seal is cheap, but if it's leaking, chances are the pin is pitted/shot. Total cost on mine was like $550. I pulled the drive. I was going to do it myself, but thought better after realizing it's a pressed steel pin in an aluminum housing. By time I bought or made a puller it was cheaper for the mech. to just use his specially made for this job.

I don't know how much room you have on the inside transom of your boat, but I did not have to pull mt engine to get to the nut on the inside of the gimble assembly.

I would just bite the bullet and have it done. If you acccidentally break any of the gimle ring/ transom assembly, the job just got VERY expensive...

Zack