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Originally Posted by Wes Burmark
(Post 4024281)
mptrimshop - It does not seem like there are any upgrades that pencil out. Heads, cam, intake, throttle body, headers, and computer tune times two... plus new props for maybe 10 m.p.h.? Whipples would probably require forged pistons and stronger rods at a minimum, and headers. What goes in must come out. And Whipple recommends some good sized oil coolers so add another grand to that upgrade. I would also venture the Whipples might put the Brovo 1s near the edge. A lot of money to put into a 29' that would still probably not be any faster than a 35' Fountain with stock 496s. Maybe someone out there knows some affordable magic!
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I have the blue motors so I think I would be safe tossing a set of whipples on. I would do a lot more research befor I did something like that. But from my understanding I have all forged internals. I have no idea what speed I could excspect from that.... I don't ask cuz I don't want to sit at night a think about how cool it would be.
Now back to our regular scheduled fight Burg came out swinging in the first round... Landed a few good shots But I'm giving the the last 3/4 of the round to ICDE .... Seems to be doing well with his combo quotes. |
:banned:
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Did I miss something???:confused:
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I'm surprised nobody's suggested the AFR 265's in this thread yet
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Blue motors still have cast pistons. I've done a few small block Whipples. Doing 4 N/A 6.2 builds right now. I'll post some results when done. I also dyno'd and tuned a couple of 6.2's last spring for a fellow OSO member. He had a small cam upgrade and intake swap, and made 400 hp. If your target is in the low to mid 400 range don't give up on the 6.2.
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bobl - I would be interested in your dyno results. Also curious about what cam and intake were used. I know the 6.2s are rated 320 prop h.p. I wonder what the loss is from crankshaft h.p. to the prop on Bravo 1.
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
(Post 4024514)
Did I miss something???:confused:
A lot.... But I think a mod came and cleaned it up. |
Originally Posted by Wes Burmark
(Post 4024537)
bobl - I would be interested in your dyno results. Also curious about what cam and intake were used. I know the 6.2s are rated 320 prop h.p. I wonder what the loss is from crankshaft h.p. to the prop on Bravo 1.
Damn... I was sure I had forged pistons.... Seems dumb that merc put all that work into this motor and put cast pistons on it |
Bobl and I are working on a pretty aggressive 383 build for my Sunsation. We will let you guys know how it turns out!
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 4024521)
I'm surprised nobody's suggested the AFR 265's in this thread yet
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AFR 265 vs Dart 270. Which one will make more torque from 1100rpm to 1500rpm
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Bobl..what kind of sound are your 400hp sbc's making. What does it take to make a mean sounding SBC, always loved the lope of the HP500's, 500EFI, and 525's. Is it possible to get a small block to have this exhaust note, at times I feel my stock 350 MPI mags sound weak at idle.
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I rebuilt a totally stock 6.2 a few years ago. It made around 350 hp at the crank on my dyno. I 've measured a consistent 10% loss through the drive on many engines tested at the crank, then installed in the boat and retested at the prop. So 350 is right in line with Merc's 320 PSHP claim.
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Looseconnection, It's really all about the exhaust. You put some cmi headers on a sbc you can get aggressive on a cam and it will sound great and make nice power.
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If you guys cant keep the thread on track I'm going to close it. I already cleaned this up once, next time I will issue timeouts.
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BobL - thanks for the loss info on crank to Bravo 1 propshaft horsepower. I went to the CMI site and they claim a fair increase in h.p. with their headers over stock on the 6.2s. Other members have said they got zero m.p.h. increase after the install. Have you done any dyno work to support this exhaust manifold change?
SpeedGirl - sorry you have had to work overtime moderating this thread. It is disappointing to see the number of replies going way up, and then reading responses that have nothing to do with the original post. I appreciate the expertise of those on this site. |
Originally Posted by Trash
(Post 4023360)
The components all say NLA (no longer available) on the parts list and even if they were they were EXPENSIVE.
Examples: 938-8412812 HEAD, Cylinder $1,130.48 $973.68 429-842405 CRANKSHAFT $4,770.53 $4,108.84 431-849195 CAMSHAFT, Roller $1,377.57 $1,186.52 807352A2 MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY, Intake $1,362.16 $1,220.02 861484A1 BODY ASSEMBLY, Throttle $553.30 $487.68 861334A5 PLENUM ASSEMBLY, Intake $808.30 $712.44 |
Sorry boys no porn site URL's or opinions about homosexuals but I did have some info that the
OP may appreciate. :evilb: :evilb: http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5cba0736.jpg http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5a572e85.jpg http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps56ed01ee.jpg http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps765dae95.jpg http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps24c305ac.jpg http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps16ac9634.jpg http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36082c50.jpg |
no comment
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They hosed me on the stainless steel braided lines !!!!!!
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http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...roubles-2.html
I'am working on a project the starts with the 6.2 MPI. I would bet the same pistons are being used in the Scorpion, sounds like the forged pistons are not holding up. It has a 4340 crank, but most likely the 5.700 forged rods as found in the 5.7. They are called forged; that not being a 2618. I will let you know how it goes on this project. Figure in boring to 4.030, CP pistons, AFR 190s, cam, lifters, rocker arms, push rods, rebalance and the Holley Stealth HP EFI. Throw some tubular headers on top of that. $$$$$. This isn't a budget build. Figure the cost; of EFI, then figure in a intake, carburetor, flames arrestor, fuel pump, distributor, wiring harness, ignition box, you will be over 1k in those parts alone. You can throw some iron eagle heads on there, they will make power. I saw a video; taking a set of 882 and working well over in the tune of $1000+, run them on a 383 carb, take them of and bolt on a set of Iron Eagles, the Darts blew the 882s away. If I can find it I will post it up. |
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Originally Posted by bobl
(Post 4024532)
Blue motors still have cast pistons. I've done a few small block Whipples. Doing 4 N/A 6.2 builds right now. I'll post some results when done. I also dyno'd and tuned a couple of 6.2's last spring for a fellow OSO member. He had a small cam upgrade and intake swap, and made 400 hp. If your target is in the low to mid 400 range don't give up on the 6.2.
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Originally Posted by Wes Burmark
(Post 4025034)
BobL - thanks for the loss info on crank to Bravo 1 propshaft horsepower. I went to the CMI site and they claim a fair increase in h.p. with their headers over stock on the 6.2s. Other members have said they got zero m.p.h. increase after the install. Have you done any dyno work to support this exhaust manifold change?
SpeedGirl - sorry you have had to work overtime moderating this thread. It is disappointing to see the number of replies going way up, and then reading responses that have nothing to do with the original post. I appreciate the expertise of those on this site. |
Originally Posted by 4mulafastech
(Post 4026019)
Very interested in these builds Bob. Looking forward to the results. Will these N/A builds be okay on 89 octane?
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Originally Posted by MER Performance
(Post 4025231)
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I blew one piston on one and a head gasket on the other with about 200 hours. Year 2004 motors in a 2005 boat. Bobl suspects ethanol clogging injectors. No matter what the cause, it looks like I'm in good company.
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Originally Posted by Phazar454Mag
(Post 4027013)
Are there still problems with pistons on 6.2 MPI's or did Mercury Mercruiser introduce an improved piston design at some point to fix the issue ?
My client has pulled the trigger on building the 383 off the 6.2 . We had a discussion about just selling the stock 6.2 complete, minus the front accessory pulley brackets, sea water pump, alternator, and power steering. I'am putting it out there starting at $5k and would accept a realistic offer, if we can cover, building a new short block. The boat is well taken care of, the engine has 300 hrs. He also has a Y pipe, silent choice, and tips, if someone is interested. |
Originally Posted by Captain YARRR
(Post 4027130)
I blew one piston on one and a head gasket on the other with about 200 hours. Year 2004 motors in a 2005 boat. Bobl suspects ethanol clogging injectors. No matter what the cause, it looks like I'm in good company.
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Ouch! Well there we have it in my case!
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So are you guys thinking it might be a good idea to yank the injectors and have them looked at every 150-200 hours?
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Originally Posted by mptrimshop
(Post 4027540)
So are you guys thinking it might be a good idea to yank the injectors and have them looked at every 150-200 hours?
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Injector cleaners containing PEA, will keep injectors very clean. GM and BMW did a study some time ago. A point to note is most available cleaners contain zero PEA. Redline Fuel system cleaner, Amsoil and REGANE(the expensive one) all contain a healthy dose of this very effective detergent.
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Originally Posted by mptrimshop
(Post 4027540)
So are you guys thinking it might be a good idea to yank the injectors and have them looked at every 150-200 hours?
I ran SeaFoam and it still happened to me. I won't be using it anymore and I'll just be pulling the injectors every couple years to be extra safe. |
What company's are recommended?..... From what I found on the net.... After the first time you will know if it was needed. Most provide befor and after data
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Originally Posted by Captain YARRR
(Post 4027565)
If you ask me, yeah it's a hell of a lot cheaper than my engine builds. I wish I would have done it when I got the boat with 130 hours. Looking back on it, I think it probably needed it that early. We are planning on having it be an every other year item. It's cheap insurance.
I ran SeaFoam and it still happened to me. I won't be using it anymore and I'll just be pulling the injectors every couple years to be extra safe. Companies that use PEA are : Redline oil, Amsoil, Regane(their top tier product). Chevron techron(expensive concentrated formula). PEA also cleans valves and combustion chambers very well as it is a high temperature detergent. |
I'll keep that in mind for sure, but I won't be putting all my faith in anything from a bottle after this. Can't hurt to run it on occasion though! How often are you running it?
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Scott Sjogren (at Pier 57 where purchased my Fountain) suggested running ValvTech fuel additive full-time. It really adds very little to the overall cost of running the boat. I have also used Chevron Techron in my Corvettes, truck, and (yes it is a bit embarrassing to admit) the Prius. When the tank gets close to 1/2 I add 5-6 bottles of Chevron Techron to the boat once per year. So far, so good. BTW - Scott's opinion is the 6.2s should get at least 850 hours before needing a refresh.
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Originally Posted by Captain YARRR
(Post 4027577)
I'll keep that in mind for sure, but I won't be putting all my faith in anything from a bottle after this. Can't hurt to run it on occasion though! How often are you running it?
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