I want to paint my Mercury/B&M 420 Blowers. They are currently black. Want to change that. I wont be rattle canning them, they will be painted in a spray booth.

I plan to paint them White. I would like to know what paint/clear will work best, not turn yellow, and be resistant to gas, and clean up well. What would you guys recommend?

the toughest would be awlgrip.

Hey Kris, anyone ever use Imron for engine paint?

I use automotive paint all the time, PPG, Dupont, just use a good primer, self etching for alum. The paint will not burn until over 300 degrees. I would be worried about white paint, discoloring with any heat source. But; I don't know that for 100%..

See ya, Merry Christmas!

That's my worry is the yellowing. Especially with gasoline if I spill some while changing carb jets or whatever. I figure though, with white cars, parked in the sun out in las vegas, must see some intense surface temps. I never felt my blowers being really hot, as in couldn't touch them. Merry Christmas to you Mark

Here in AZ they have several testing facilities for the OEM's(I regularly visit them for code inspections). They test plastics, a Miriad of paints and coatings. All of the test panels articulate with the sun in order to ensure a full day of Arizona sun exposure. My thoughts are as follows, the new automotive paints seem to do just fine with gasoline exposure(constant spilling from filling your tank at the gas station) and like mark mentioned above, if it's not over 300 degrees, it shouldn't be a problem. Granted it will have more exposure to fuel in your application, but these new base/clear paints seem to be hardly phased by gasoline in general.

Nason single stage enamel is very strong and CHEAP

joe,,shame on you for not calling me,,i paint ALL the engines i do with Imron..bring them over and we can hose them down with the white color you want..you don't need clear for a solid color but if you want that deep look then we can clear them as well..

I have used Imron. The problem that I found is that it's a little too hard and some want to crack eventually. The other issue is that you don't have the benefit of clear. You can use it if you want. but it doesn't require it. The newer high solid clears will give you a ton more protection than a single stage Imron.

The key is using good products. If you use an acid etch primer, be sure to remove ALL paint first. If not, you will be sorry. The acid will eat into the remaining paint and lift it. Once it lifts, it all comes off. Acid etch primer is awesome....you just have to use it correctly. You can also use an epoxy primer is you aren't going to strip them. You don't have to strip them if they are in good shape. You can just scuff them and shoot. Blend in any chips so they don't show though, if it has any.

I put on a bunch of material. I'll shoot 2-3 coats of primer, 3 coats of color, and 3 coats of clear. Good materials are expensive though. On average, I'll spend at least 200-300 per engine in materials only. I shoot a lot of House of Kolor, which runs about $120 a quart. I recently shot some Sikkens that was over $200/quart, along with a pearl base maker that was almost $300/quart. I had over $1000 in materials alone. I was matching a color from TAOD and wanted to stick with the same stuff.

Give me a shout I can help. I'm certainly no paint expert, but I've painted a few engines. Most body shop supply stores are more than willing to help. That's where I learned a lot of what I know about paints.
Eddie

Call Arnies paint supply in joliet. These guys have built there business from the ground over the last 20 years... And they know the chit when it comes to paint.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Arnie...48733968505094