Engine paint question.
12-27-2013 | 11:56 AM
#22
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
I have used Imron. The problem that I found is that it's a little too hard and some want to crack eventually. The other issue is that you don't have the benefit of clear. You can use it if you want. but it doesn't require it. The newer high solid clears will give you a ton more protection than a single stage Imron.
The key is using good products. If you use an acid etch primer, be sure to remove ALL paint first. If not, you will be sorry. The acid will eat into the remaining paint and lift it. Once it lifts, it all comes off. Acid etch primer is awesome....you just have to use it correctly. You can also use an epoxy primer is you aren't going to strip them. You don't have to strip them if they are in good shape. You can just scuff them and shoot. Blend in any chips so they don't show though, if it has any.
I put on a bunch of material. I'll shoot 2-3 coats of primer, 3 coats of color, and 3 coats of clear. Good materials are expensive though. On average, I'll spend at least 200-300 per engine in materials only. I shoot a lot of House of Kolor, which runs about $120 a quart. I recently shot some Sikkens that was over $200/quart, along with a pearl base maker that was almost $300/quart. I had over $1000 in materials alone. I was matching a color from TAOD and wanted to stick with the same stuff.
Give me a shout I can help. I'm certainly no paint expert, but I've painted a few engines. Most body shop supply stores are more than willing to help. That's where I learned a lot of what I know about paints.
Eddie
The key is using good products. If you use an acid etch primer, be sure to remove ALL paint first. If not, you will be sorry. The acid will eat into the remaining paint and lift it. Once it lifts, it all comes off. Acid etch primer is awesome....you just have to use it correctly. You can also use an epoxy primer is you aren't going to strip them. You don't have to strip them if they are in good shape. You can just scuff them and shoot. Blend in any chips so they don't show though, if it has any.
I put on a bunch of material. I'll shoot 2-3 coats of primer, 3 coats of color, and 3 coats of clear. Good materials are expensive though. On average, I'll spend at least 200-300 per engine in materials only. I shoot a lot of House of Kolor, which runs about $120 a quart. I recently shot some Sikkens that was over $200/quart, along with a pearl base maker that was almost $300/quart. I had over $1000 in materials alone. I was matching a color from TAOD and wanted to stick with the same stuff.
Give me a shout I can help. I'm certainly no paint expert, but I've painted a few engines. Most body shop supply stores are more than willing to help. That's where I learned a lot of what I know about paints.
Eddie
Lots of good info on this thread, thanks guys! BTW, this is the engine that got me horny about doing this
12-27-2013 | 04:21 PM
#24
Registered
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,480
Likes: 43
From: Tennessee
12-27-2013 | 07:51 PM
#27
Joe
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 702
Likes: 2
From: SE Pennsylvania
Thunder always used BC/CC on all the motors I painted, restored classic cars, custom cars, boats...used HOC, DuPont, PPG, even Nason, never had a problem....here's a few I painted [ATTACH=CONFIG]515300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515301[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515302[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515303[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515304[/ATTACH]
12-27-2013 | 08:22 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Registered
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 73
From: chicago
Thunder always used BC/CC on all the motors I painted, restored classic cars, custom cars, boats...used HOC, DuPont, PPG, even Nason, never had a problem....here's a few I painted [ATTACH=CONFIG]515300[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515301[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515302[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515303[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]515304[/ATTACH]
