U make'n fun of me again....quit pick'n on the small guys:D

Seems to me this thread is going all over the place beating up his builder, solving heat/lean condition he is not sure does or doesn't exist etc,,, instead of where it should which is to give jay advice on a logical step by step to see if and what his problems are with the min chance of damageing his ride.

to me his problem is low oil pres, this is the big red flag


to solve it

Get a mech oil presure guage and an oil temp guage to verify if indeed the presure is actually low or if it was a guage problem and to see if the oil temp is getting too high and also shut down quick if it is while in the testing process. Get the builder to sign off on the test approach so he doesn't blame jay for the problems.

we can speculate what problem might be, heat from lean carbs, springs, cam gone south, bad guage, or just bad bearings but we got Jay running around looking for carb rods here when he doesn't really know if he even has a heat problem yet of which lean is only one of many possible causes.

P.S. and the infared is a great idea if you can borrow one, the heat transfer delta accross .050 of steel of the oil filter will be very low, less than the accuracy tolerence of a guage/sender and will tell you if your oil is 240 or 300 degrees which is what you need to know not whether it is 237 or 241

hear, hear. well said. Find the problem before you start fixing things.

i just used a Raytek RayngerST gun...if anyone has a more expensive unit please speak up...i just used it on a 5.8l marine engine running like an m f'er...ADACS data is 247 and holding as well as ALL other parameters...the reading from the gun were taken at 18"....reading were as much as 40deg in various parts of the FL-1A filter...highest reading was 218....

would you like any other data???

so to close...the gun...bad idea...they work better in a pass fail enviornment... any ???"'s

no ideas...just data:D

thanks for the insight about the guns, that was pretty much my point tho, jay needs data about oil P and temp. not ideas about carb brands holley vs Qjet, carb size, carb setup, pushrod alignment, springs, bearings, or hoe great/terrible his engine builder is /was etc etc etc.

Hell he could just have a bad oil P guage, needs to know what if anything is broke before he breaks,, er,, I mean fixes it :)

Ursus.....Thats what i was trying to say this AM !!!!!
Oil Press & Oil Temp !!!!! need those #s first !!!!!!
Then there are people on this board that can help
but if that is a true oil press. reading all the Holly carbs
in the world aint gonna help !!!!!!MUCH more serious
Problems.

Well I think we all can agree on the poofing out the carb is from lean or fuel starvation status
Tonight I am going to change the oil to straight 40 weight as recommended by quite a few people and get the 10 W 40 out of there.
If I have to, Ill order the metering rods (secondaries) but im still 100% lost on how that is going to help the poofs out of the carb at 1200-1600 rpm's when the secondaries are NOT even open at that point.
The 2 set screws on the front of the carb I would have swore that they would ADD more fuel to the setup.
IE Idle air/fuel mixture set screws.
If that dumps more fuel in at idle it would seem to me that when you open the throttle a little before the secondaries open, that would have an increase in the fuel delivery curve present since it is allowing more to flow at idle, when pressure increases will allow more fuel to get out that way correct?

Put it this way, if you take those screws and run them all the way in, right, you cut off the fuel completley?
so by turning them out would you not start dumping more fuel IN then through the primaries?

so it would seem to me that by turning the screws out on the 2 primary venturies, you can dump more fuel in when only the 2 primaries are open and with the addition of the new metering rods for the secondaries, you then can pump more fuel in through the secondaires at higher RPM's to prevent high end fuel starvation or lean condition
(am I just babbling on or smoking crack or am I making any sense to any of you yet?)
God this sucks
Jason

Jay. FYI,
I just copied this comment from Tomcat to Sean.......from another post


Sean

Since you mentioned the low oil pressure problem, there is another possibility that has been discussed on OSO before. If these are GenV/VI blocks you need the high pressure oil bypass valves in the filter pad on the block. I had low oil pressure after a WOT run, but the oil temperature sender after the cooler hardly moved. I would have to fast idle for a few minutes to keep 20-25 psi otherwise it would drop to 5-10 psi like yours. After this cooling off period the pressure would come back. Pressure on cold start and at higher RPM was good.

What I found were 11 psi oil bypass valves instead of the 30 psi valves. This is okay in a car with the filter on the pad on the block, but when you use a remote filter, oil cooler, lines and fittings the extra restriction creates too much pressure at the bypass valve and it opens. The result is at WOT a lot of your oil bypasses both the filter and the cooler, temperatures go who knows how high and viscosity goes down. Come back to idle with this hot oil and you have no pressure. After the oil cools down, you have the pressure back. Sound familiar? This little vlave problem has ruined a lot of marine engines. It seems that when the GenV/VI blocks come down the production line, they all get 11 psi valves, and even the engine marinizers didn't pick up on it right away.

My oil temp sender is after the cooler, and the reason it hardly moves is only a small amount of the oil is actually taking that pathway and it is well cooled by a big oil cooler. Only the temporary oil pressure problem led me to look into the bypass valve. Scoggin-Dickey have a tech sheet that explains what you need to do. (806-798-4000).

While you're at it look at your oil lines and fittings and eliminate unnecessary elbows especially drilled 90s. I got rid of 3 drilled 90s with one sweeping line. If you follow the tech sheet you will remove the second bypass valve in the block (it's there for plumbing an oil cooler directly from the block, where you likely have your oil cooler in line with the remote filter). When you do this you eliminate another 3 drilled 90's. This will increase oil flow through the remote line and reduce the pressure at the bypass valve, so the 30 psi valve should never open. Some guys don't use the 30 psi valve, they just plug the hole, but hot dirty oil is better than no oil at all if the remote line should get plugged for some reason.

The bad news is, it's very difficult to change these valves without pulling the engines. Good luck!

Well that SUCKS
but I have a Gen 4 (Mark IV or whatever you want to term it)
It is a 1990 set of blocks
does that make a difference on this or no?
Jason