Change oil filter too!
 

Jay,

I would suggest that you change the oil filter too while you are going to the trouble of changing the oil. It will only cost a few bucks, and they are easy to get to. If you perform a search on oil filters, you will find some good recommendations. I recall someone having problems with oil filters that contain organic filter media swelling and clogging up when a small amount of water got mixed with the oil. It caused the bypass to kick in, which meant that the oil cooler was also bypassed, leading to high oil temps and low pressure. I know you didn't see any evidence of water in the oil, but sometimes it does not show up that easily. I think the board member who posted the thread was GregP, and he found that running the Wix racing filters (available at any NAPA) corrected his problems because they use a synthetic filter media that is not affected by water. Give it a try - couldn't hurt!

Good luck! Believe me, I've been in your situation. Did virtually the same rebuild as you last year. Spent half the summer without the boat because the engine builder broke his ankle before he finished the engine. Then the flunkee who he recruited to help him out didn't use thread sealer on the head bolts! So I know all about the frustration level you are dealing with. Hang in there.

"changed all springs and seat shims ect."....if shims were installed (to adjust install height)....how the **** did you have coil bind???...all the cam info u gave was from a cam card...those are the #'s that it sould be...even the cam manufacture will tell you to dial it in and double check it!....so what is your seat psi,,,50 and max...these ARE VERY important #'s in a boat!!!..one pass in a car will not make a **** differance to oil tmps.

FIRST!!!...what are your leak down #'s???...

SECOND!!!!check ingnition system...what are the #'s on all the componets??

THIRD!!!!Investigate the carb.

hummmm,,,,fuel, air, heat....sounds like the making of (actually you can't make anything, but that's another story.LOL)......start with basics....sometimes they suck so people SKIP them. generally people with the MOST experience do it because they...."this one time i had...." you are all over the place in diagnostics here,,,yes, we the people here that lurk on the OSO board are not helping...LOL....but the best thing to do is let Mr.I-Can-Put-Engine-Parts-Together-Man take it from here!...tell him MAKE MY BOAT WORK!!!...bill me for anything that is NOT engine related....

I had coil bind from too MANY shims under the rotaters
then the springs sat on top of the rotaters and they compressed the spring down, slapped the retainer and keepers on it
uncompressed the spring
boom done
now when the cam lobe comes up
pushes the lifter
pushes up on push rod
pushes up on rocker arm
pushes DOWN on valve compressing spring
BLAM bent pushrod cause spring was sitting up too high to begin with
coil bind happened cause spring would not compress enough
the cam lobe was still pushing UP on the lifter when the spring was 100% compressed and could not go any further
what gives?
the pushrods gave out and bent
(some were bent to **** too)

Leak down tester was used when changing pushrods on engine to hold up valves and change valve springs and readjust seats and rotaters
I dont know what the numbers on the leak down tester were but when we pumped air into each cyl it moved the crank around until that particular piston hit BDC and held up the valves, the gauge was off the scale saying there was no leaks
we popped the valves when new springs were on and made sure the thing worked okay and the needle would jump but then come back and rest when it was full of air
I dont know what you mean on #'s on all components of Ignition system
I have ac delco plugs in it, gapped to .035 Taylor wires brand new, new dist cap, new dist rotor and thunder chicken bolt #4 with timing set at idle (700 rpm) to 8 degrees advanced
The carb, HA the carb, well I have never been a rochester fan much and I would LOVE it more than lift to have 2 deamons or 2 holleys staring at me in the face no doubt but that is not going to happen right now.
Maybe over the winter I can get 2 holleys and drop them on in the spring, all of a 20 minute job there but for now I just want to run this god damn thing for the piss ant summer that is left (not much left either)
I cant believe that this bull**** is happening to me
and now wife wants me to sell this thing and get Bumpnuglies fountain she loves that thing
I might think about that but still does not change the fact I cant sell this thing the way it is right now anyway.
I WILL NOT BE BEAT by this
No freakin way

J, i understand engines...it really was not a question..i was just pointing out this dude is a DUFASS..

diagnostics should be done w/in 2 hours MAX if this guy knows anything???!

hummmm someone one said...."
you just said it!!...you put this $$$ into a boat...make it less reliable and your wife is going to freak!...the best advice yet...keep it bone stock...make boating a huge great experience for her....get her hooked and then step up to a boat that was build from the core glass work up for more power....a TON of people on this board always look to the engine for more speed....i would love to see for once some one with a stock power boat step up and by full hydrulic steering as the FIRST upgrade. NOT the last or at all!

keep it stock! increase the resale value, not decrease it!"

get the engine guy to make it work....get a lawyer to document it all....cover your ass, mr. engine builder has u bent over....trust me, it looks like it's going to hurt...ever been in a turkish prison???LOL

Well Im going to call engine builder back again and say LOOK THIS IS NOW YOUR PROBLEM
he had me calling all over the place yesterday to local speed shops looking for someone that knows carbs
WTF Why am I doing your job for you
jackass
im really getting freakin pissed off here
this has been nothing but problems and it shoudl be a no brainer here.
if you have been messing with engines for 35 years I would think you would know SOMETHING about ROCHESTER carbs?
gee probably only most popular carb out there for stock applications in the world?
HELLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
you cant tell me everyone in the world is running a freakin holley
that is bull
Im friggin going to blast him if I dont get an answer that I want
Ill do the damn metering rods and adjust the idle set screws to richen up the mixture as per a few websites on rochesters I have found but Who the hell knows if it will be enough and run okay at that point
I will take a wild stab at the fact that the oil pressure will increase a little bit due to the thicker oil that is going to be in there.
BUT still does not mean it wont get hot as hell either.
If I can get some more fuel into the engine that will as a guess stop the poofing out of the carb, that will at least make me feel better about this whole thing.
then if the oil pressure still drops
I think im going to tell engine builder, look something is really wrong, im going to pull it, bring it back you mess with it and fix the damn thing like you said you were going to to begin with and then Ill pick it back up when your done
This is just really getting out of hand and im really getting pissed cause he is more interested in messing around with his dick than anything else
Jason

Jay
 

:D Jay keep up the good work and I love reading your post you get this "TUB" done and you will have to start somethig new for the winter to keep us all intertained:D Charlie

Thanks Rag, Im trying
I think over the winter im going to take up a hobby of airbrushing
I paint almost everything and im not bad at it now, I have sprayed cars, toys and other things with my paint gun but want to do more detail oriented painting.
I think im going to get a few books from the book store and a HVLP gun and a half way decent airbrush to tinker around with.

I dont mean to be that entertaining but you should see me with 3-4 beers in me, I have all my friends in stiches and the wife rolling on the floor when I get on a roll.

Now for the carb
we will figure this out.
it will run this summer with no poofing before im done with it
Now time to take the wife out for her birthday
I will see all of you later and some of you tomorrow night up in Burlington NJ to watch the fireworks on the water
Just look for the arch and swing by.
If your an OSO your cool in my book!!!!
if you cant see the arch, then look harder!
ill be there
If I have to switch to plan B to get home so be it (plan B being big paddles to row my tub back to shore)
Jason

Jason, you won't need the paddles, just don't beat the S@#% out of it till you get all the stuff fixed. Its only a short ride to the fireworks. If you do have problems out there call my cell phone
(Check your E-mail for #) We will be in Burlington also.
Tom 21' Blue Formula (MissMyMoney)

Jay remember 10 pounds per 1000 RPM's!!!! Keep that in mind when you are out there. Going to 40wt oil is only going to buy you some time. Your oil preasure will still drop. I wish I could give you better news then that but that is what happend to me when I was going through the same thing.

Jon

Audacity,.. my IR gun is same as yours, but the ST 30Pro. You are holding the gun too far from the surface for accuracy. 18" is a good distance for a flat surface greater than 6" wide (min). You were shooting a round filter ~ 3-4" in dia. Try again at 1-2" away and I bet your accuracy improves. The spec on accuracy for these units are +/- 1% measured temp, which is much more useful than pass/fail. Again, I use these every day in thermal processing of glue with excellent results. TCs are certainly better for permanent installations, but these IR guns have tons of useful applications when properly used. The only other consideration for accuracy is emissivity, but I don't think that is why yours is inaccurate.

BT :cool: