Cam shaft numbers
#41
10-2-1 comp, big 355? brodix heads, 1150 carb, 4.375stroke, I will get the build sheets but I was just seeing what others were running.
#42
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,189
Likes: 55
From: Cape coral, FL
Reread the first question I asked. I was wondering what everyone else is running for cams in 540 to 565ci n/a 700plus engines no blowers., as far as mentioning names I haven't, I bought the heads from mike tkach. icu looking your right that's why I ask questions I bought **** cause it sounded like I needed but I should had listened to more experienced people.Mild thunder i appreciate you and the others input.
Carry on. Lol
Last edited by Crude Intentions; 01-27-2014 at 10:52 PM.
#43
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,439
Likes: 93
From: yorkville,il
johnny,you said you bought **** heads from me,lets talk about them.i sold you 2 sets of used brodix aluminum heads complete with valves& springs that came off of 580 cu in supercharged engines[origionally sc800s] for 3000.for both sets.i told you what they came off of and as far as corrosion in the cooling ports it was minimal,if i thought they needed repair i would have sent them out but they looked good.i gave you the stamped numbers that brodix puts on every head they produce.i am sorry that you are not seing the hp numbers that you were looking for but when you peice engines togeather with used parts that you buy cheeply you cant expect to get the same results as a well thought out build with new high dollar parts.i am posting this responce because it appeared to me as you are trying to make it look like i misrepresented the parts you bought from me,I DID NOT.
#44
Mike i didnt say anything other than your who bought them from, i cant remember what size they were and when i called you , awhile ago you couldnt either. I figured one of your buddy may had remember them, seems like you are all close so i figured someone would remember which ones they were, yes you are right bi knew they needed corrosion repair never said anything about it.CHEAPLY i deff am not in these cheap!!!!!
Last edited by johnnyboatman; 01-28-2014 at 10:58 AM.
#46
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 334
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From: Oklahoma sticks
Man I thought everyone was friends here on this site. This is what happened in racing everyone stopped helping each other and looking down on the little guy. Some can be rude or **** heads to each other but I know I'm no better than the next person and I don't care who has money or not. We do well and still help the little guy. But what I'm noticing is we are deeper into winter and our manginas are acting up so let's look at the big picture that 2 months from now we all should be equal. A boat is a boat but you can't replace good friends and times.
#47
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 334
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From: Oklahoma sticks
On a side note my next question will be what is a good clearance on marine engines for bbc. On the mains and rods. I will be using coated bearings. Like I said before I am scared that this is my first motor build but I want to say I did it and with the help of the good guys on this site so let's respect each other and their opinions on helping each other. Now democrat or republican is a whole different argument not engine parts.
#48
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Taunton Ma
I believe .0028-.0032 was the general consensus. It's what I've been using. If its a low rpm low hp motor it can be a little tighter like .0025 but bigger power and sustained higher rpm I believe you want to be closer to .003.
#49
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 334
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From: Oklahoma sticks
Ok thx. See the deal is I could call the guy who built my engines for drag racing but I don't want to hurt his feelings. I appreciate it.
#50
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,733
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From: bel air, md
I like to see .004 on the back end .0035 on the rest I like the kings bearings for performance builds. All the clearances need to be checked carefully. Lifter bore valves ect.


