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Engine won't get boat on plane - ignition issue?

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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Timing locked is a common thing alot of guys do that are running blowers, big cams, etc. For example on my setup, the mechanical advance inside my MSD distributor, is 'locked" out .Meaning there is no centrifugal advance. Say 34* is what you want. Locked, simply means its always at 34*. Whether it be idle, cruise, or WOT.

I used to run the 18* bushing in my distributor. What that meant, was that it would give me 18* of mechanical advance, and the springs determined WHEN that advance came in. I used to run my timing at that time at 30* total, which gave me 12* at idle. With that setup, a 250 blower, and a dominator carb, the engine always wanted to puke when shifting, and generally didnt idle all that well. Once I locked the timing, it no longer stalled, and the idle cleaned up much better.

Being that you have the merc ignition, i think the V6 module is the way to go imo. You should have no starter issues. I have many boat buddies who run their stuff locked at 32, 34, 35, etc, and have no starting issues.

If you really want to get trick, theres some great distributors out there now, that have fully programmable timing curves built in. You can do things like start retard, keep timing up at idle, then pull some back at peak torque, and add it back in at wot, etc. Thats really the best setup. But, they are around 350-450 bucks for one of those.
MT, I might give the V6 module a try just for grins. Might be a hedge against any tendency for reversion too. Question - when setting total timing, is it just a matter of RPM in neutral, or does it need to be under load? I always set it in neutral, but a buddy was saying the boat should be running under load for this. I have a beer riding on the answer.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by tpabayflyer
I also am using the 24* module with 10* initial and a total of 34 with my 509.....idle is OK.....I have a 22* module as a spare that I can use if I have to buy gas on the water. I use 93 with my 10.2-1 C/R.....I am using a mighty demon 850 and it took me a while to get the idle right. I had to make sure the throttle blades were not open to far at idle and bypassing the idle circuit. I mounted an AEM air/fuel gauge and it really helped getting the idle right..... Here is a quick vid o my idle before tuning and it was very rich a 11.5-1....... It is now around 13.5-14.0 at idle and has a nice, snappy bark now!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0for...e_gdata_player
My idle started off at around 11 during the dyno session. He enlarged the idle air bleed slightly to address this, and it did take it to around 14 at idle. Cleaned up my black transom disease, but I think we may have leaned it out a little too much. Had to take the idle screws out about 2 1/2 turns to get it to go into gear without stumbling all over itself.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:06 PM
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34* is 34* under load or not . Play hell setting timing whilst running down the lake .
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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by the deep
34* is 34* under load or not . Play hell setting timing whilst running down the lake .
Cue up image of Budman screaming down the lake in the boat with my legs hanging out from under the hatch while setting my timing.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by the deep
Play hell setting timing whilst running down the lake .
You first.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
You first.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman II
My idle started off at around 11 during the dyno session. He enlarged the idle air bleed slightly to address this, and it did take it to around 14 at idle. Cleaned up my black transom disease, but I think we may have leaned it out a little too much. Had to take the idle screws out about 2 1/2 turns to get it to go into gear without stumbling all over itself.
Yes, dyno operators forget that a boat has to get shifted into gear and have a pretty good load on them at idle speed. This isnt a manual tranny car or a car with a big stall converter. Sometimes you need that fat idle to keep it running. This is a reason you hear them big blower engines surging up and down. Most guys running these big blower carb engines, are also running big props. Shifting an engine into gear with a pair of 18x38P 6 blade props hooked to it, can really lug it down. Its not like shifting a engine hooked to a pair of 21p 3 blades. It takes very little air/fuel to idle an engine neutral, but under load turning a big prop, the demand can be much greater.

. As far as setting the timing, load/throttle position is irrelevant in your case. Setting it in neutral is fine.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Budman II
Cue up image of Budman screaming down the lake in the boat with my legs hanging out from under the hatch while setting my timing.
You could play it safer by sitting in a bucket of water, hold ignition wire #1 - at the terminal on distributor of course- and just point a finger from your other hand at the balancer.

If you need a brighter light just grab a buddies Series 7 MSD box.
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Old 06-23-2014 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
You could play it safer by sitting in a bucket of water, hold ignition wire #1 - at the terminal on distributor of course- and just point a finger from your other hand at the balancer.

If you need a brighter light just grab a buddies Series 7 MSD box.
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Old 06-24-2014 | 05:40 AM
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It's technical jargon for schmeg and schmootz.
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