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Help Please!!!! 88 Four Winns Liberator 211 is SLOW!!

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Old 06-24-2014, 01:01 PM
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I just remembered, I had a discrepancy with a marine mechanic about the distributor in my motor. To me it looks like it is a locked distributor, there is no mechanical or vacuum advance. I think it should have mechanical advance in the distributor, but he says that this locked one is the way to go??
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Kylep0112
I originally filled it up with 40 Gallons of Premium from a Wesco right around the corner from the boat launch I use. I took the boat for a ride and it was sluggish and didnt want to come out of the hole at all. The guy who built my motor told me to drain that 40 gallons and to run the super premium from this Citgo, he wanted me to run that because it is Ethanol Free fuel. I told me for every 10 gallons of it to run 1 gallon of the race fuel they offered at the same citgo. He said the race fuel has Zinc or something in it that would be good for the flat tappet lifters in my motor. I drained out the Wesco premium and filled up with the Ethanol Free and man what a difference, the motor ran smoother and came out of the hole alot better. I was 100% skeptical when he told me to switch fuel, I told him he was nuts but I was wrong, it made a difference.
Zinc (ZDDP) in your engine oil is good for flat tappet cams. Your fuel should not be interacting with your lifters in any way, shape, or form. Now, if the race fuel has lead in it then that is good for valve seats but with today's hardened seats lead is not necessary.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kylep0112
He said the race fuel has Zinc or something in it that would be good for the flat tappet lifters in my motor.
I hope he meant oil with zinc, because if you are using Race Fuel to break in a cam there is a whole different world of problems.
I think you may have misquoted him. lol
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:23 PM
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I apologize its been a long day, you are correct. Zinc is in the oil I'm running and it was the Lead in the race fuel

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Old 06-24-2014, 03:20 PM
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Please post your engine specs to keep this thread from jumping all over the place . This engine is not built to stock specs so you guys assuming that it is are wrong . The same prop was also used before the rebuild . After the rebuild there is a loss of speed and rpm . We need compression ratio , cam specs , model of intake and exhaust used . We have Edelbrock heads , intake , Edl. 600 carb , K&N flame arrester , 37* of timing and race fuel .
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by the deep
Please post your engine specs to keep this thread from jumping all over the place . This engine is not built to stock specs so you guys assuming that it is are wrong . The same prop was also used before the rebuild . After the rebuild there is a loss of speed and rpm . We need compression ratio , cam specs , model of intake and exhaust used . We have Edelbrock heads , intake , Edl. 600 carb , K&N flame arrester , 37* of timing and race fuel .
You sound like me.

Gawd I feel bad for you. He, he.
========

99.5% of the time people ask for help on forums (I won't mention real life because that's what I do and it can become worse) they don't or can't give us all the info and we are expected to come up with the right answer.

All we really need to know is the old cam (#'s will be on it) and new cam and we can go from there.

You know how many times I get told, "Yeh, it's an RV cam." My answer always is "What the f*k is an RV cam ?"

I also get " I have a Stage 4 Computer Chip " and my answer always is "What the f*k is a Stage 1,2,3,4,5 or whatever anything ?"

LOL.

One's who get pissed and think I'm stupid get let go. The one's who smile, shrug there shoulders, gigle, or anything that shows "Yeh, I know, that means nothing" gets help.

Last edited by SB; 06-24-2014 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
You sound like me.

Gawd I feel bad for you. He, he.
========

99.5% of the time people ask for help on forums (I won't mention real life because that's what I do and it can become worse) they don't or can't give us all the info and we are expected to come up with the right answer.

All we really need to know is the old cam (#'s will be on it) and new cam and we can go from there.

You know how many times I get told, "Yeh, it's an RV cam." My answer always is "What the f*k is an RV cam ?"

I also get " I have a Stage 4 Computer Chip " and my answer always is "What the f*k is a Stage 1,2,3,4,5 or whatever anything ?"

LOL.

One's who get pissed and think I'm stupid get let go. The one's who smile, shrug there shoulders, gigle, or anything that shows "Yeh, I know, that means nothing" gets help.
RV cam = 3/8 of a 3/4 race cam...... Your a good man to have around .
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Old 06-24-2014, 04:51 PM
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my 87 cobra motor had a points distributor. surprised the heck out of me. if he has something else in there now and doesn't see a mech advance, there is a chance there is no advance. also early king cobras looked just like cobras and had 1.3-something ratios. 1.36 1.38?
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:07 PM
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Race fuel with Zinc and oil with lead....somehow I don't think I'm gonna get good info on camshaft and tuning specs to help much here.

And just so people know, regular Edelbrock small block heads aren't any better than the Vortecs. Better than most factory offerings, but not world beaters either.

Like any decent head, the cam choice will make or break an engine power wise. So won't carb tuning.

Can the old carb be thrown on to see if it's your new carb not getting it done ? You wouldn't believe the difference from something like the secondaries not opening much vs fully opening. Difference is like a NOS shot.

Let's get to work on what cam is in there. That way we'll know if an engine paramter issue or a tuning issue.

Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:22 PM
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Yep , vacuum secondaries in the Edl. tend not to want to open with the low rpm's he's turning . That's the reason I told the op in his other thread I prefer mechanical secondaries for a marine engine .
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