Ok, finally got around to dyno'ing my buddy's supercharged engine with the daytona ignition. To give you an idea of what we had

522ci
AFR 315 CNC heads
10-71 Littlefield blower
Blower shop intercooler with brand new core
twin 1050 quick fuel carbs

So, today we broke it in on the dyno, and began doing our baseline typical dyno session with the timing locked at 34*. After some minor carb tuning, we had 1018HP at 6500RPM, and peak torque of 940FT lbs at 4400RPM. My buddy was very happy, as the numbers exceeded his expectation and goal.

Now it was time to upload the custom 3d timing map I configured. Traditional knowledge had us thinking, we would see a torque loss, and possibly higher egt's. Didnt happen. What we did see, is the same exact peak torque number of 940 at 4400, however, the torque numbers improved everywhere from 4000+. Not drastically, but at 4000RPM, we saw an increase of 7ft lbs, and about the same gain across the board over the locked timing.

At 4500RPM, with timing locked, was 34* obviously. With the map I did, we had 26* at 4500. With 8 degrees less timing, we lost no torque, actually gained a little. Besides that, the EGT temps went DOWN with less timing there. So, that tells me the engine was simply happier with less timing there. Air fuel ratio remained virtually the same.

I was able to add 1 more degree of timing at 6500RPM, where locked was 34, and with the map it was 35* total. Again, the egt's went down, and peak power went from 1018HP at 6500, to 1032 at 6500. It certainly liked the timing up there.

So, my overall opinion, is the programmable ignition, is a total win. I feel we certainly increased the safety factor of the engine, in the rpm range of 3000-5500, by being able to take out a bunch of timing, that simply was doing nothing for the engine. I gave it what it liked down low, and gave it what it liked up top.

As far as the idle is concerned, I had the idle at 26* at 1000RPM. It idled cleaner there than it did with the timing at 34 locked. I set up the idle stabilization, to engage at 800RPM, adding 10* of advance. We idled the engine down to experiment, and the engine idled without a hiccup at 750RPM , with the idle stabilization feature doing its job. Even with cold water flowing thru the intercooler. I was very impressed that a twin 1050 carb, roots blown, aggressively cammed 1000HP engine could sit there at 750RPM like nothing. You honestly would think it was a port injected deal.

Awesome results

Thanks for your help on this Billy. You and Eddie Young were a big help.

That is very cool

Just an FYI, as a friend of mine, bought his boxes from another daytona dealer than I did, and I know alot of guys here buy parts from.

He was sent and spec'd a 3 bar map sensor for his engines. Being that I was going to be doing the programming for his engine I just spoke about in the previous post, I advised him to use a 2 bar map sensor, after finding out he had been sent a 3 bar. I had already built a base map for his engine assuming he had a 2 bar, then I found out he had a 3 bar sensor. I asked WHY, This is a roots blown engine that will never ever see 15+ lbs of boost. He said thats what the dealer told him he needed for his application.

We had another 2 bar map sensor from one of our kits we havent installed yet, which we used on his engine. Upon contacting the person/dealer who sold him the ignitions to exchange the 3 bar for the 2 bar last night, he was told by the ds dealer, the 2 bar is incorrect, and the 3 bar is what he needed for a true 3d map, as well as some general incorrect info.

To clarify any misinformation, a 2 bar map sensor, is what you would want to use with a boosted engine that runs below 15lbs of boost. While you technically can run a 3 bar with it as well, your increments of adjustment will be limited in the range of boost/rpm you would be in. Basically, by using a 3 bar on a low boost setup, you are eliminating tuneable parameters in the software. A 1 bar map sensor is used with a N/A engine.

Also, if using an MSD distributor, you do not need a custom rotor like my buddy was told. That is for when are using a mercury distributor.

The only problem I've seen with this product, is daytona's tech support is poor, so if purchasing one of these kits, I do suggest talking with someone who's familiar with them, and actually programmed them and used them in the field. I know MER Mark is a guy who knows these well, and is a dealer for them. Or if I can be any help, I'll certainly try to share what I've learned with them. They are pretty simple, but at first the whole thing can be a bit confusing on the initial setup of the software, com port, map guidelines, etc.

You only have 0-5 volts, so if you don't need a 3 bar Map, a 2 Bar will have much more resolution.

I agree, the idle stabilization does work great. I spent Wed & Thurs on Lake Powell in Arizona/Utah and shot a quick video of mine idling cold 30 seconds after starting. Water temp was 63º and a guy visiting from North Carolina walked down the dock and said, "I'm impressed that you got that thing idling like that!"

Here's the video link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auaCNyL05FA

Steve

^^^^^WOW !!!!! ^^^^^^

Great proof you just showed !

Nice idle Steve!

Mine don`t like to idle that low but Joe was doing his usual carb tuning magic and we came up with this : (pre idlestabilization, warm engine)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwE6eEf92p8&feature=youtu.be
No cool blower surge kinda sucks

Disclaimer:
Due to the inaccuracy of the equipment I use I do plan on verifying AFR`s with plug checks, break out the old oscilloscope
for rpm. I`ll probably switch out the Daytona ignition to some points, throw on some Tomco carburetors, leaded gas conversion and find me some McCulloch Superchargers.
Gotta go for now, promised my gal pal to take the Pontiac Chiefton to the picture show, they have air-conditioning now!
Hopefully the Russians don`t make it into Space first!

Can't watch the vid, it's set to private.