Timing a custom supercharged engine
#51
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From: chicago
Different sensors have different calibrations, 1 bar 2 bar, etc. For a 1 bar (atmospheric ) sensor, 5 volts is 105kpa/14.7psi/0" vacuum/1 bar. Depending on how you want to read it. When your engine pulls a vacuum, it is still reading pressure, unless you boat in space, there will always be pressure in your intake, even though we call it vacuum, it's only pressure below atmospheric - 14.7psi
#53
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From: chicago
I figured that. Makes sense on the N/A to just do a RPM based map. Heck, even on my engines the rpm based map prob still be better than locked out.
#54
Joe, just so that you know, I have the new Daytona Censor ignition boxes/equipment and will be incorporating them into the supercharged engines set-up Dave is building for me now. He has called and spoken with the owner of Daytona and really believes the guy knows his stuff about ignition.
#55
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From: chicago
Good to know Mark! My two options are the msd 6530 vs daytona sensors. While the msd is a bit cheaper, I am kinda leaning towards the daytona boxes. Seems like they have a few more features , and from what I hear top notch quality.
#56
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From: wisconsin
So tell me if i have this correct: take either the MSD or Daytona box, you have to lock your distributor at where you want your highest advance.. Lets just say 42*, now you set your start up retard to like 15* to 500 rpm then however your going to program through the rest of your curve, bla bla bla... Now? what happens if the box takes a poo? And the box won't take timing out... you are locked at 42* and will idle fine and you go up on plane and blow your motor cause it didn't retard??? WTF??? I would really rather have a box that could add timing.. not just take away timing. So, do I have this wrong? and is there any fail safe?
#59
So tell me if i have this correct: take either the MSD or Daytona box, you have to lock your distributor at where you want your highest advance.. Lets just say 42*, now you set your start up retard to like 15* to 500 rpm then however your going to program through the rest of your curve, bla bla bla... Now? what happens if the box takes a poo? And the box won't take timing out... you are locked at 42* and will idle fine and you go up on plane and blow your motor cause it didn't retard??? WTF??? I would really rather have a box that could add timing.. not just take away timing. So, do I have this wrong? and is there any fail safe?
Also, in reference to the daytona sensors..... The CD-1 comes with a new coil (worth 80
To 100 bones), a USB patch cord and all the software. It also has a +5 volt terminal for powering up external sensors (MAP sensor)





