496 Stroker/Dart Pro1 Heads
09-01-2002, 12:52 PM
#21
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..........Back to the post,
While using SRP piston #142991(10.2:1),Eagle H beam rods and crank, do you have to clearance the block for stroker crankshaft?
I need real advice here!!!!!!!
While using SRP piston #142991(10.2:1),Eagle H beam rods and crank, do you have to clearance the block for stroker crankshaft?
I need real advice here!!!!!!!
09-02-2002, 04:57 PM
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Thanks guys,,,,
I appreciate your advice.
Just trying to build some decent motors.
This is the best place for me to find info.
......Back to work:
I'm presently using the OEM harmonic balancer that was on my
454 Mags.
The engines were balanced internally when I did the last upgrade.
The machine shop that did my work setup the flywheel and damper(OEM) for internal balance
Do I need to go to better damper now that the horsepower is being upped?
Also with the piston/head/cam combo that I have presently posted on,will I have valve clearance problems?
Dennis
I appreciate your advice.
Just trying to build some decent motors.
This is the best place for me to find info.
......Back to work:
I'm presently using the OEM harmonic balancer that was on my
454 Mags.
The engines were balanced internally when I did the last upgrade.
The machine shop that did my work setup the flywheel and damper(OEM) for internal balance
Do I need to go to better damper now that the horsepower is being upped?
Also with the piston/head/cam combo that I have presently posted on,will I have valve clearance problems?
Dennis
09-02-2002, 07:21 PM
#25
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An aftermarket dampener would be a good idea. I use a Fluid Dampener. With .714" lift and SRP pistons there are no clearance issues between pistons and valves on my 496. You always have to check this to be sure, but SRP pistons are made to be used in roller cammed motors and have quite a bit of clearance built in.
09-02-2002, 08:56 PM
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DOCTOR DAVE,
When I was upgrading my 365 mags,I brought in the flywheel and balancerS to my machine shop.
I believe they where then neutral balanced?????
The rotating assembly is internally balanced as I have the balance sheet.
I don't have the engines apart yet as I'm still farting around getting 'em ready to pull.
When I pull the flywheel and damper off I'll take a pic and
you can see what was done to them.
P.S With the setup I have with Pro1 heads will I need to install a stud girdle?
Dennis
When I was upgrading my 365 mags,I brought in the flywheel and balancerS to my machine shop.
I believe they where then neutral balanced?????
The rotating assembly is internally balanced as I have the balance sheet.
I don't have the engines apart yet as I'm still farting around getting 'em ready to pull.
When I pull the flywheel and damper off I'll take a pic and
you can see what was done to them.
P.S With the setup I have with Pro1 heads will I need to install a stud girdle?
Dennis
Last edited by StrikinLightnin; 09-02-2002 at 09:02 PM.
09-02-2002, 10:27 PM
#29
35Lightening,
I'm pretty sure you WON'T be needing a stud girdle---especially if you're using a hydraulic roller cam
BTW, Doctor Dave and the Wolff may be coming up with me as guests on my boat at Hardy Dam. What a rough bunch!
I'm pretty sure you WON'T be needing a stud girdle---especially if you're using a hydraulic roller cam
BTW, Doctor Dave and the Wolff may be coming up with me as guests on my boat at Hardy Dam. What a rough bunch!
Last edited by KAAMA; 09-02-2002 at 10:35 PM.
09-03-2002, 10:07 AM
#30
35lightning
I would port the chambers before cutting the dome on the pistons. It may screw with the thermal dynamics by making the dome thinner than the deck of the piston. Also by porting the chambers airflow will be increased. Look for a final volume of 125-128cc's after port work. One other point, make sure the valve grind is OK. Most of the brand new pro one heads that have been in here needed the seats reground to square the seat to the guide. Even though the valve may seal with the valve spring pulling it tight, the valve will flex every time it opens and closes, wearing the valve guide or fatiguing the valve. They dont know this at Summit or Jegs so dont be afraid to spend a few bucks more at a reputible shop.
While you have the motor apart, make sure the bore bottoms are champfered and the block is bore notched for airflow. This will lower compression 2-3 cc's.
Dont waist your money on a girdle for a hydraulic roller cam, with the relitively short valve lifts and low spring pressures it wont load the stud enough to make a difference not to mention the hydraulics themselfs acts as a buffer. my 2cents JimV
I would port the chambers before cutting the dome on the pistons. It may screw with the thermal dynamics by making the dome thinner than the deck of the piston. Also by porting the chambers airflow will be increased. Look for a final volume of 125-128cc's after port work. One other point, make sure the valve grind is OK. Most of the brand new pro one heads that have been in here needed the seats reground to square the seat to the guide. Even though the valve may seal with the valve spring pulling it tight, the valve will flex every time it opens and closes, wearing the valve guide or fatiguing the valve. They dont know this at Summit or Jegs so dont be afraid to spend a few bucks more at a reputible shop.
While you have the motor apart, make sure the bore bottoms are champfered and the block is bore notched for airflow. This will lower compression 2-3 cc's.
Dont waist your money on a girdle for a hydraulic roller cam, with the relitively short valve lifts and low spring pressures it wont load the stud enough to make a difference not to mention the hydraulics themselfs acts as a buffer. my 2cents JimV
