Gen6 cylinder bore question max bore?
10-08-2014, 06:24 AM
#11
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Trying to make the best decisions withing budget, I can buy the blocks if needed but will take longer as I pay cash for boat stuff. If my blocks can be used I would like to, even though dart would be better I can't spend the cash unless I really MUST
10-08-2014, 06:28 AM
#12
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They have a casting date, left top side where the bell housing bolts up
10-08-2014, 06:30 AM
#13
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they will be sonic tested no matter what I would never take a chance without, the blocks were supposed to be new when done in 06, but you know the story on that clown so who knows, thought about only going .010 more with custom pistons also trying to keep it simple but who knows, noting for me ever goes as planned lol
Keep in mind, the dart block may cost ya 1800 for the block, but you'll have quite a bit more in it by the time its machined and ready to assemble. You'll prob have 5k in a pair of blocks ready to assemble.
The Bowtie race blocks are good blocks too. Problem is if you find a pair, most guys want enough for them, that simply going to a new dart block isnt that much more money.
10-08-2014, 07:39 AM
#14
What advice did ray give you Tim? I'd go with whatever he tells you as you have chosen him to machne the pieces.
That said, bear in mind that you will have 700 to 1000 each into keepng those stock blocks. Cleaning, sonic checking, line hone the main journals, deck the block, boring and torque plate honing will add right up.
Question on dart blocks......what is left to machine? Final honing?
Also, do they come with main studs and billet caps?
That said, bear in mind that you will have 700 to 1000 each into keepng those stock blocks. Cleaning, sonic checking, line hone the main journals, deck the block, boring and torque plate honing will add right up.
Question on dart blocks......what is left to machine? Final honing?
Also, do they come with main studs and billet caps?
10-08-2014, 07:43 AM
#15
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billit caps are an upgrade, but well worth the money
10-08-2014, 09:12 AM
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the dart big m block comes with bolts,not studs but i have used them in 1000 + hp engines..the block needs to be bored,decked,lifter bores honed to size so you need to add the cost to finish the block to the purchase price.as already mentioned,sonic check the gen 6 block as many can go to 4.600 safely.i like to use a custom piston and only bore the block enough to clean it up,that way it can be done several more times.good luck with your builds.
10-08-2014, 09:17 AM
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the machine shop we use, has been using RaceTec pistons as of lately. The used JE for years, but I guess they have been liking the timeframe of the racetec custom pistons. I believe on my buddy Joes engines, that i had that dyno thread on, were 4.560, and they went 4.563 to clean them up, and had custom pistons made for it. On production blocks, I'd prefer to keep the bore to a minimum as needed.
Keep in mind, the dart block may cost ya 1800 for the block, but you'll have quite a bit more in it by the time its machined and ready to assemble. You'll prob have 5k in a pair of blocks ready to assemble.
The Bowtie race blocks are good blocks too. Problem is if you find a pair, most guys want enough for them, that simply going to a new dart block isnt that much more money.
Keep in mind, the dart block may cost ya 1800 for the block, but you'll have quite a bit more in it by the time its machined and ready to assemble. You'll prob have 5k in a pair of blocks ready to assemble.
The Bowtie race blocks are good blocks too. Problem is if you find a pair, most guys want enough for them, that simply going to a new dart block isnt that much more money.
10-08-2014, 09:22 AM
#18
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the machine shop we use, has been using RaceTec pistons as of lately. The used JE for years, but I guess they have been liking the timeframe of the racetec custom pistons. I believe on my buddy Joes engines, that i had that dyno thread on, were 4.560, and they went 4.563 to clean them up, and had custom pistons made for it. On production blocks, I'd prefer to keep the bore to a minimum as needed.
Keep in mind, the dart block may cost ya 1800 for the block, but you'll have quite a bit more in it by the time its machined and ready to assemble. You'll prob have 5k in a pair of blocks ready to assemble.
The Bowtie race blocks are good blocks too. Problem is if you find a pair, most guys want enough for them, that simply going to a new dart block isnt that much more money.
Keep in mind, the dart block may cost ya 1800 for the block, but you'll have quite a bit more in it by the time its machined and ready to assemble. You'll prob have 5k in a pair of blocks ready to assemble.
The Bowtie race blocks are good blocks too. Problem is if you find a pair, most guys want enough for them, that simply going to a new dart block isnt that much more money.
10-08-2014, 09:23 AM
#19
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What advice did ray give you Tim? I'd go with whatever he tells you as you have chosen him to machne the pieces.
That said, bear in mind that you will have 700 to 1000 each into keepng those stock blocks. Cleaning, sonic checking, line hone the main journals, deck the block, boring and torque plate honing will add right up.
Question on dart blocks......what is left to machine? Final honing?
Also, do they come with main studs and billet caps?
That said, bear in mind that you will have 700 to 1000 each into keepng those stock blocks. Cleaning, sonic checking, line hone the main journals, deck the block, boring and torque plate honing will add right up.
Question on dart blocks......what is left to machine? Final honing?
Also, do they come with main studs and billet caps?
10-08-2014, 09:24 AM
#20
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the dart big m block comes with bolts,not studs but i have used them in 1000 + hp engines..the block needs to be bored,decked,lifter bores honed to size so you need to add the cost to finish the block to the purchase price.as already mentioned,sonic check the gen 6 block as many can go to 4.600 safely.i like to use a custom piston and only bore the block enough to clean it up,that way it can be done several more times.good luck with your builds.
