Bearing clearances, oil weight, and more...
#11
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I have seen these roller cam bearings used in dirt track engines because of the high valve spring pressures they run . A concept that would render this conversation moot if they were available to replace the other bearings in high HP apps. . http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...O7waAm2G8P8HAQ
#12
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In 2009 the federal government mandated auto manufacturers recommend 20wt oil. If the manufacturer did not comply they had to pay a fine for that model. Not all manufacturers have complied with every model. What I have noticed when the switch to 20 wt was made. Oil consumption is very high most cars are running out of oil before there normal change interval. I work on a ton of cars. Probably 30-50 different makes and models a week. This is what I have witnessed as a trend with 20wt oils. You can have them.
Both foreign and domestic... Anything that was built in the last 5 years you better get used to checking the oil every 1000 miles or you will be replacing a engine now...
5 quart capacity that has an allowable usage of 1 quart every 600 miles. This same motor has a recommended change interval of 10,000 miles.... Do the math. Less than half way through your oil change you could be replacing your engine instead of the oil. 0w-20 is like antifreeze consistency.
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
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I went through oiling issues years ago with my 454's...ran the "loose clearances" with standard pumps that many on oso said would be fine, 55psi cold at idle.... I wiped out mains on both engines at less then 3 hours... and even after a rebuild people still said the pumps and pressures were ok... then another wiped main, people here and other places blamed Fram filters ( I use K&N) so not sure why that was said to me lol, they blamed the factory merc 90 degree brass fittings...the been there 20+ years on EVERY BOAT OUT THERE, not the best but work fine..people blamed the bearings.... everything.....of course I never listened to my best buddy Lake Effect.... and I should have...
we redid engines one last time, I bought new cranks because I didnt want cut ones, #1-4 mains were .003 and #5 was .0035 we used HV pumps shimmed for 80 psi (trick from Dean Gellner) and reassembled engines...had 80 psi cold at idle, 40-50 hot idle, temps never went over 240 tops with Valvoline V! racing oil 20-50
I beat them engines for 5 seasons with zero issues ever again, so my personal experiance I say the loose clearance and high pressure is the key, along with a thick GOOD oil...
I am going to set up new engines the same way that I am building this winter...
we redid engines one last time, I bought new cranks because I didnt want cut ones, #1-4 mains were .003 and #5 was .0035 we used HV pumps shimmed for 80 psi (trick from Dean Gellner) and reassembled engines...had 80 psi cold at idle, 40-50 hot idle, temps never went over 240 tops with Valvoline V! racing oil 20-50
I beat them engines for 5 seasons with zero issues ever again, so my personal experiance I say the loose clearance and high pressure is the key, along with a thick GOOD oil...
I am going to set up new engines the same way that I am building this winter...
#14
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Someone I know very, very, very well (wink) decided when 0w-20 / 5W-20 was spec'd on certain cars that came in, they still used 5W-30 synthetic. And have never seen the oil usage issues that you two mention. I'll tell him to give himself a pat on the back for just saying No. LOL.
Workes fine in his -20F or so winter starts ups, so why go lighter ?
Workes fine in his -20F or so winter starts ups, so why go lighter ?
Last edited by SB; 11-15-2014 at 02:55 PM.
#15
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Both foreign and domestic... Anything that was built in the last 5 years you better get used to checking the oil every 1000 miles or you will be replacing a engine now...
5 quart capacity that has an allowable usage of 1 quart every 600 miles. This same motor has a recommended change interval of 10,000 miles.... Do the math. Less than half way through your oil change you could be replacing your engine instead of the oil. 0w-20 is like antifreeze consistency.
5 quart capacity that has an allowable usage of 1 quart every 600 miles. This same motor has a recommended change interval of 10,000 miles.... Do the math. Less than half way through your oil change you could be replacing your engine instead of the oil. 0w-20 is like antifreeze consistency.
#16
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Someone I know very, very, very well (wink) decided when 0w-20 / 5W-20 was spec'd on certain cars that came in, they still used 5W-30 synthetic. And have never seen the oil usage issues that you two mention. I'll tell him to give himself a pat on the back for just saying No. LOL.
Workes fine in his -20F or so winter starts ups, so why go lighter ?
Workes fine in his -20F or so winter starts ups, so why go lighter ?
#17
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I have seen these roller cam bearings used in dirt track engines because of the high valve spring pressures they run . A concept that would render this conversation moot if they were available to replace the other bearings in high HP apps. . http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...O7waAm2G8P8HAQ
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#19
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in a marine bbc i like ,0027-.003 on the rods and .003-0035 on the mains.for a street car subtract .0005.i have done it this way for 35 plus years and im not changing now.i have seen bearing failure from to tight clearance but not from a little loose.just my opinion.i also like 15w50 or 20w50 oil in them.
Last edited by mike tkach; 11-15-2014 at 06:09 PM.
#20
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Someone I know very, very, very well (wink) decided when 0w-20 / 5W-20 was spec'd on certain cars that came in, they still used 5W-30 synthetic. And have never seen the oil usage issues that you two mention. I'll tell him to give himself a pat on the back for just saying No. LOL.
Workes fine in his -20F or so winter starts ups, so why go lighter ?
Workes fine in his -20F or so winter starts ups, so why go lighter ?
"ACCEPTABLE LIMITS".