I hear you a big name in performance parts years ago told me stay away from Eagle stuff and since you posted about them I remember the same now what you posted. Just could not remember the reason as I never bought their products nor would as well.

Since I'm such a douche I'll reply.

I did say regardless of engine building or non engine building background. L19 bolts are probably not ideal in my climate.

This was about rod bolts yes???

In my area dew point can be reached by freezing to thaw, or above dew to drop at night. There are too many days like this to gamble on a rod bolt that says keep out of moisture. Like a bilge........

Since we are talking endurance engines, what does nascar do that we don't? Wet exhaust? 7000+rpm for 400 miles? The way sone guys talk, that's how often their doing upper ends.

I never claimed to be an offshore engine god. I just added my 2 cents like you.

Believe me I can derail a thread in 1 post flat. But I'm here to glean some information. I'm into this hobby, or I'd have went out in a blazing permaban long ago.

Mike t, I'd love to drink a few with you and haxby. I like good quality technical talk that makes the gears in my head whirl. Perhaps I'd make yours do the same.

No matter the engine background, doesn't mean you can't apply something that will make things better. In racing that's the difference between cheating and not getting caught.

My guess is when actual tangible data (how much a concern moisture is) posted about the L-19 rod bolts we will perceive these as short term connectors for short term (racing applications) and extreme high HP applications. IMO the L-19 corrosion issue is only a concern after a few years in "compromising" environment. Most of us have oil temps over 170*f at some point, coupled with a PCV and any moisture is eliminated.

If the ARP 2000 or equivalent are more then adequate for aftermarket "out of the box" rods, exceed the clamping force of the rod itself, and will last multiple rebuilds. It raises the question, why?

Why does my engine have a 142* merc thermostat in it. I experienced milky residue under the oil caps with that t stat. I put a 160 in with a couple holes drilled because my intake has no bypass. With that temp increase I eliminated the majority if not all the water. No more condensation under the valve Covers. How many boats are out there running like that. To me, That is a significant amount of moisture being subjected to rod bolts. Especially if they were l19.

But, I'm the type to overbuild, if there was a bolt with l19 strength and arp 2000 than that's the bolt for me.

I'm sure there is. It was discussed in the locked thread I think. Probably this one too.

This is somewhat out there but im almost sure that the bolts that secure the hammers in my orchard flail are l19, and this is definitely not a moisture free environment, but this could be so they will shear before damaging other parts .

Nice try stimleck...... Back to the topic at hand.

I had this very discussion with a Callies engineer, and don't want to misquote, as I forget exactly what he said, however, I will contact him on Monday. Initially I was going to just buy ARP 2000's however he advised against this. For the sake of factual data I will wait until Monday to comment.

He did stress that the manufacturing process is what has the most impact on stress corrosion though, I do recall that.

They actually offered me a job, I declined. Overqualified ;)

Had to offer up one thread derail. Back to the discussion.

OK, so we've touched base on the rod bolts. How about main caps?

At what point, whether it be RPM, stroke, HP level, does the ductile iron cap become an issue? Anybody witness signs of cap walk at certain levels?

I remember reading some literature from the bowtie blocks. In that literature, they rated the iron cap block for 800hp, and steel cap block to 1200hp.

Annnnnd Completely Overqualified for this site to - you forgot that one as well. Just kidding . I think Borgie was trying to throw some late nite humor out for a change of pace.