Off the top of my head- aeromotive and mallory.

Identical products as far as I know except for the marine approval.

Non Marine- http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...npt-regulator/

Marine- http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...ulator-38-npt/

Non Marine- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4207/overview/

Marine- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4207m/overview/

These are considered marine products but they are not coast guard approved.

If I use one of these right after my mechanical fuel pump

http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-337-f...ion-block.aspx


Use one port to go up to my carbs and another port for this fuel regulator :

http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13162...-5-12-lbs.aspx


From the regulator back to the tank.

Would that work?

Yes, but I would use a BLP regulator. It will mount into the log look nicer and is a much better piece for the same money

This one?


http://www.jetracinginc.com/index.ph...gulator-detail

Yes I paid under $100 from blp

that reg won,t work as it can,t carry enough fuel from 1 port to supply 4 fuel bowls at wot.even 2 regs won,t work.

Sure it will if you hook it up on the return side. Heck for that matter a $30 Holley will work.

Im so confused. This is a very simple, fuel system setup, or should be at least. You have a mechanical pump, and two carbs to feed. The entire idea of modifying what you already had, was to eliminate any possible fuel supply issues, which you may not have even had in the first place. I agree, that going to a higher pressure pump, with a return style regulator would be a better setup, than the self regulated pump, at 900HP. Looking for proven reliable setup here.

With that being said, I think you are trying to reinvent the wheel on this a bit. Trying to use a non bypass style regulator, to bleed off the extra fuel pressure in the system, with a fuel log/manifold, also not plumbed the way it was intended to be plumbed. I think life would be a helll of a lot easier, to just use a quality BYPASS style regulator, capable of flowing enough fuel for 900HP+ carbed. Restricting things down to 3/8' pipe, putting things together outside their intended design functions, sound like a good way to give yourself a headache, and possibly waste a bunch of money if it doesnt work as you planned.

This I copied from post on another forum from a BG tech, where a guy was trying to do what you are trying to do (on a mild street engine)

The mechanical difference is all in what happens to the fuel once it enters in and how it is controlled. With a bypass the fuel enters from a side and exits out the bottom. Because of this the fuel is not "trapped" inside the regulator and all it has to do is exceed the set pressure and it lifts a ball and diaphragm with a spring to exit while maintaining a set pressure.

With a regulator the fuel can enter from the bottom or front and is trapped inside the regulator until the engine is started and the needle and seats start flowing fuel. The internals to a regulator are more complicated as it is continually opening and shutting itself off to maintain the pressure.