Favorite BBC Rod Thread
 

Just curious what brand rods you guys prefer for a blown 509ci 1000hp and under . Christmas shopping . lol

can,t go wrong with the oliver,dam good rod.

make sure you get the L19 bolt,lol.

:lolhit: I've been looking at the Olivers , nice US made but a bit pricy . I don't think this is a good place to skimp though if your looking for endurance . What would be your second choice Mike ?

http://www.oliverracingparts.com/dow...x%20Series.pdf

i have used the eagle with arp2000 bolts in 1000 hp builds but for me,OLIVER.the scat is the same price&quality as the eagle.manley is not a bad rod either.maybe one of the pro,s will chime in on this one.

:poopoo:I am not a pro but I am 100% carrillo rod guy.. Probably the best rods on the market. For those that argue What does nascar engine guys use and why?

Pretty much all the lower priced rods are Chinese forgings, eagle, scat, etc... Think about what the most common cause of catastrophic failures is, the ones that trash everything, and then ask yourself if good rods are really that expensive.

Thats issues has been taken care of.. no one is going to argue with you, its all good now :D

No worries about 6 of 9.......http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/a...d-the_borg.jpg

My second would be crower.
Best bang for the buck.

I've probably used them all and never had any trouble out of any of them. I run the Callie's ultra xd I-beam in my 632 and its a really nice rod.

Deep, for your particular build, I'd go for the Callies Compstar. Best bang for the buck out there, IMO. The Oliver's are awesome, and so are the Callies Ultra, which is what I usually use. But both of those may be more then you want to spend, and more then you really need. If I was building a 1000hp combo for a customer, I'd use the ultra, if I was building it for myself I'd use the Compstar.

That is interesting. What is your thought process on this?

The difference is the person you have to answer to should the slight chance of something going wrong happen lol

Basically, if I'm putting a 1000hp engine out in the field with my name on it, I'm going to go overkill on all the components. If I'm doing it for myself, I'll put in what I feel is adequate, knowing that I'll always be on top of the tune, and it's maintenance. Sometimes I'll even run something that isn't supposed to work at that power level, just to try it out. Performance connecting rods are relatively new in the aftermarket performance parts world, guys were making big power with factory stuff not that long ago, and are again today. The machining, tolerances, and tuning are WAY more important then the physical strength of the components in a lot of cases, and the vast majority of failures can be attributed to one, or many of those items.

Pushing above 900 hp with higher torque loads, especially in a forced induction application, is going to be your limits on using a lower quality rod. Any rod manufacturer will give you their limits of the rods application.

One other thing to consider, when selecting a lower priced rod is the material used for the rod bushing. I know for a fact Comp star; uses a Ampco 45 bushing, that is harder than the Eagle and the Scat rods. You can also compare the sizing of the rods, with the rod bolts stretched to their proper length.You can do this with a bore gauge, but a better way to check it is on the rod gauge used on the rod honing equipment.

Another excellent rod out there is made by Howards ( Competition Products ) it's a parabolic beam rod, they are about the same price as Callies "Ultra".

I have taken stock 7/16 rods, installed new ARP bolts, re sized them, balanced them + - 2 grams and have used them in NA builds making 630 hp spinning 5800 rpms and this was in a heavy boat. So it's not necessary to over kill a build with rods that cost a lot, it all depends on the application. I have seem a 1000 hp engine using Oliver rods, Callies crank, Merlin block, lose a oil line at 6000 RPMs and destroy everything, except the heads and blower. That Oliver rod didn't disintegrate as a H beam would, and it tore up everything that came in contact with it.

If you send a Oliver rod back that has pin oiling, for new bushings, they actually can re machine the true center-center rod length back to it's correct length.

Not trying to argue, but it seems like valvetrain failure, especially dropped valves, also do an excellent job of wrecking everything in an engine, especially when the shrapnel gets sucked back into the intake and "shared" with the other cylinders. I worry about that in a boat engine even more than lower end failure, especially when you have the prevalence of leaky exhaust systems and reversion.

I think the gist of the entire thread is that any rod failure is catastrophic, but it's certainly good that all components need to matched to the application and quality components. It amazed me when we were building engines all the time how many folks would spend a ton on rotating assemblies and loose a motor because of some cheap retainer or buying some used set of roller rockers that fail. As Budman said, lots can go wrong and you should use the best you can afford at all stages.

We had some failures with Carrillo back then, but were told is was an isolated manufacturing run that was bad. They were excellent at helping us out though. Olivers are very nice. Actually had success with Eagles. To me, rod bolts are about as important as the rod in preventing failures, so don't cheap out on bolts!

Like CD said, my main point was a typical rod failure will leave little to nothing salvageable.

There's a lot more to rod selection then just HP......like RPM, piston weight, etc. I will admit its a little over my head, but I have enjoyed learning about it lately while researching my build. Looking into the Carrillo H beam with CARR bolts or the Callies Ultra I beam with custom age 625 bolts for myself.

Here are some nice rods if your considering eagle or scat. $559!!! This guy has been in the Rod business for over 30 years and ran some of the top companies like Oliver etc. Worth looking into. They even offer a pretty sweet proprietary ARP2000 bolt with asymmetrical threads similar to the CARR.

http://www.molnartechnologies.com/

I'm hearing from multiple sources that Oliver does not have the same quality anymore since change of ownership and multiple location changes. Thier design seems to be a better version of the I beam....hopefully they get straightened out.

Carrillo, Carrillo, Carrillo.........
quality doesn't cost, it pays

you should see what crower wants for a set,,like 1800 for a set of billet rods..i would go with the oliver rods,,i have seen a oliver rod cut into a bryant crank at over .100 thou and the rod never broke..amazing stuff..if you go yo ohio crank they haver forged olivers for under a grand and the billet ones for under 1500..

Thanks Fix . http://www.ohiocrank.com/oliver_rods.html

Back when I was racing dirt cars, I found a source for used NASCAR parts and bought quite a few sets of 6.2" Lentz rods that had been used for 1 race. They were certainly a quality piece and every one that I purchased was perfect. No problem holding up in 430ci 750hp late model engines. I have no idea what they make for big blocks though. Just thought I would share, as I have never heard mention of them since then.

Callies Ultra H-beam :sport009: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpi-u16200/overview/

Callies Ultra I-Beam :sport009: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpi-u15110/overview/

Just trying to start and I Beam vs H Beam battle. Where's boogie ?

Are you referring to 6 of 9 ? :angry-smiley-038: :lolhit:

Dunno:
Is that the same as 5w of 30 ?

L19 to say the least . :picard1:

no more boogie,he did the boogielou.

I've heard that H beams resist twisting better than I beams, that's the only advantage I am aware of. I'm running a set of Eagle H-Beams with ARP fasteners, of course I'm less than 800hp so no problems. I had them checked thoroughly and they were dead on, on all dimensions.

Fixx
 

I beam eagle with l19 bolts and 5w20 :party-smiley-004:

Hey Mike T , your new avatar is the sexiest one I've seen in a while . Shiny new pistons and Olivers give me wood . :drool1:

H-beam will twist under detonation as the piston moves from tdc as an I-beam will not due to the I-beam design.

I always thought H beam was stronger in some cases, this is from engine builder magazine..[ATTACH=CONFIG]534018[/ATTACH]

we run bme rods in the mountain motors..2000 plus hp range...i have to admit that i do run 5w20 syn in one of my toys and its been living at 10600 rpm range since 2005..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]534025[/ATTACH] http://www.callies.com/connecting-rods/

I didn't know there was mountains in Illinois. Do you consider yourself a "mountain billy"?