I saw accessories and flywheel in orig post . The flywheel will need to match your crankshaft -balance needs if your going to a gen 4 tall deck from something later then add oil pan , you will need to make sure distributor is where it needs to be in relation to your intake pad and such . Generally wont just swap out unless you have a special intake that puts dist back down in hole.crapshoot on accessories , if you have a buddy thats a good welder the exhaust will be fairly easy .you might be able to fab the riser tailpipe joint without welding , already forgot which exhaust you were running sorry

There it is gil . Might be able to pull the 4 manifold studs and fab a adapter to redirect pipes back .think i remember a guy cutting out 4 pretty quick out of 3036 that put the tails back to the tips.you will need another set of gaskets

My motors are 35 1/4 " crank to crank and i have about 1 1/2" between inside exhaust manifolds.

Is your hatch ram in the middle or outside on the ends

In the middle.

Build some standard deck stroker engines and save yourself a bunch of assache. :thankyouthankyou:

i rhought the same . mel riggs from riggs marine had to change mine .although i wasnt there .. had to custom headers from cmi they were touching . alot of rigging issues . although it might have been because of my huge oil pans pfaff used on my new engines .. maybe that was it .. hmm i cant remember exacty what his reasoning was .. at the time dint give a chit just wanted them in ... lol

a+

Also remember using different heads with raised exhaust ports will change tail location also.

The 10.2 deck engine is going to be 2" wider at the exhaust as well.