if that is the case i can,t see what that has to do with water temp!

And why they use engine chillers to cool the engines down before a pass. Not only in pro stock either.

Has to only live for 6 seconds , 118 octane, 18:1 compression, rebuilt after every pass.. etc etc a little different than a marine motor.

They also run 0w oil.. just sayin

Oh no , you said oil.......

wish we still had the borg to set us straight on the oil thing,lol.

i have a wet sleeved hemi block.

rear ends they drain the oil out.

What about the most advanced and sophisticated 1000hp motors on the planet. They run for 24 hours at a time and don't even get started until everything is brought up to temp. These drivetrains make prostock look like a child's toy. All the fluid temps are closely monitored kept in check. Everyone involved with these endurance engine programs are extremely particular about keeping the fluids at the right temperature. If you tell them you are running 100 degree water temp I can guarantee you. You will be looked at like you have two heads. Even just a couple degrees in the wrong direction is thought to be sacrilegious.

We have a guy, Tomz, the original poster, who was looking for a ring gap recommendation. He is building a 454, with a B&M 250 Roots blower.

We have strayed so far from actually helping this guy, its ridiculous. Everyone wants to talk about efficiency. The whole thermal thing, get all scientific, and start throwing clearances of .00003 around, water flow characteristics , and all kinds of stuff.

We are on a quest, to build this guy a state of the art 454 with a carbureted 250 blower. One that will not have knock protection, ideal fuel distribution, and a slew of antiquated things going on. One that will likely see elevated air intake temperatures.

My supercharged 454's have been setup without water thermostats since 1999. The bores in 1999 were 4.280 when the superchargers were added. The bores in 2005 were 4.280 when freshened. The bores are now 468 after another freshen in 2011. These engines have actually had 3 different owners, and have never tuliped a valve, busted a lifter, cracked a head, broke a ring, melted a piston, or any of that.

As of last summer, with nearly 100 hours on them since last freshen, I logged 400 hard miles by water on them, on the same engine oil. During that 400 miles, they consumed NO OIL. They at most, blew a very tiny mist of oil out the breathers after a 60 mile run held between 4500-5700RPM with several wot full load periods for miles and miles on end. They have file fit plasma moly speed pro rings, gapped on the looser side of things, per recommendation for a supercharged gas engine from the ring/piston manufacturer.

I did not dream the idea of not running water stats up myself. They were setup that way when I got them in 2007. After talking to several successful marine engine builders, who build offshore engines, not drag race, sprint cup, or nhra engines, they told me not to worry about the water temps, and to keep doing whats been working. Its been done for many years, and worked. It is also how B&M, and weiand supplied the kits back then.

Not to say that their isnt a better setup to be run, but for my old school, antique roots blown carbureted engines, I am content with the setup, and also feel content to suggest to someone, its ok to run it as I have. Just my feedback from something I've done which i feel is relative to the OP's setup.