BUP

iTrader: (9)

You should see the mechanical fuel pumps that the 3.0 - 4 bangers use from Volvo and Merc. Carb apps. And I am talking about almost brand new boats / engines - 2 year old and back. See in those apps there is a small filter inside the bottom of the mech fuel pump that's need to be changed once a year and of course no doesn't do it, so the longer they sit the worse the internals of the mech fuel pump gets plus the filter is just completely bad and all sucked inward in which causes a restriction as well for fuel flow..

Some mech fuel pumps internally end up looking like that baby powder was poured into them. What happens is the boat will NOT start anymore - the main reason is the carb can not get any fuel because the inlet screen fuel filter in the inlet fitting to carb is so impacted with this aluminum oxide, blocking any fuel flow..

What really happens is the E-10 starts etching the internals of the fuel systems metals, then over time water / condensation builds in the gas tank or a water source finds it way in into the fuel tank. next the ethanol falls out of the fuel, mixes with the water and forms acids. (phase separation) These acids attack todays metals like crazy. With aluminum it forms aluminum oxide a from of a corrosion the white powdery substance. Very common and green corrosion on brass fuel parts. This aluminum oxide formation is very common as well on the internals underside of the fuel water sep filter MOUNT. Even on the sealing portion aluminum oxide will form for the spin on fuel filter. Like I said it can cause lean fuel conditions because of air seeping into the fuel flow while running. Not uncommon, I see it a lot.

One day I will learn how to post pics up here - you would be amazed at some of the stuff that I have found and taken pics of. Anyways just some added info.

vintage chromoly

iTrader: (3)

I've danced the ethanol corrosion / gooey stuff dance with my last boat.
I started using a fuel stabilizer but also just started to drain and remove the carb and put it in the house for the winter storage season.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

A really good quality 2 stroke motor oil mixed in with the gas and ran thru the engine for a good 15 to 30 mins for any length of lay ups really does help. we have been using 50 to 1 all the way thru 80 to 1 so far have not come up any conclusions. 80 to 1 less spark plug deposits. Merc spec is 10 to 1 and that is just too much oil. 496 fouls spark plugs out like crazy at those ratios. Also for CAT engines too much oil that can contaminant the cat sub strake IMO. Volvo recommends a 50 to 1. We went to that many years ago even before they recommended.

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Yep, going to pull my tank pickup out and replace it. Do these commonly present an issue to remove? It has been in there for 30 years. kind of worried about the aluminum threads galling on my when I try to screw it out. I don't exactly feel comfortable applying heat to this area.

Is a good flowing replacement fuel tank pickup commonly a custom fabricated item, or does someone make one that fits most tanks and can be purchased?

Young Performance

I've never run into one that we couldn't get out. Sometime they are in there pretty tight though. On some of the tighter ones, we use a crow's foot with an extension so that we can get above the floor. Then you can put a long ratchet on it and get down. It's usually tough to get any leverage on it when working under the floor.

I've never been able to find a pickup that I really like, so we just make our own. I use .500 SS tubing and TIG weld it to a SS 90* fitting. Most all tanks are 3/8" NPT. We use a 3/8" NPT x #10 90* fitting. We bore out the 3/8" end of the fitting so that the OD is the same as the #10 side. Then we weld in the tubing. That way, you have 1/2" all the way through. I'm not crazy about having to use a 90* fitting, but most boats don't have the clearance between the floor and the top of the tank to use a straight fitting and a 90* hose end. Not to mention, I've used that pickup to support over 1000 hp.
Eddie

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

MT, do you know if they make a shorter version of that fuel/water filter that still has the drain on it? I like the idea of the drain, but don't have enough room for a filter that size in the current location. Thanks for the link!

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply, Eddie. Are there any concerns with galvanic corrosion occurring with the dissimilar metals (SS versus the aluminum tank)?

Young Performance

Haven't seen any as of yet. I've been making and installing those pickups for about 15 years now and haven't gotten one back yet. I'll probably get one tomorrow now. lol

Budman II

iTrader: (1)

LOL - and I would be the guy who's gas tank turns into a battery and has problems.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Yes seen dissimilar metals cause corrosion on aluminum fuel tanks and also seen pin holes in them as well.

There is a lot more to it than just the pick up causing it. Terminal connections - copper, tinned metal, or whatever, then the bolts and nuts used from S.S. to low grade metal, also standing water that can sit on the fuel tank or below it. Also brass fitting connections and hose clamp metals attached among some of the welding material and more.