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Morel 4603 lifter noise

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Old 03-17-2016, 08:16 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by SB
Okay the grease is just in the wheel bearings...but, this brings up something else.

As I was looking around, I saw that Morel's instructions says not too clean out wheels and lifter bodies...just wipe clean with lint free cloth and oil down the bodies and the wheel.

Well, when I got mine, they where in brown box and no instructions. I did what I normally do.....clean the grease out of the wheels and soak lifters in cleaner. Then blow brake clean thru the oil hole. I stop when the crud stops coming out, air dry (doesn't take long) and then drop all of them in a bucket of oil over night.

Interesting as Morel's instructions tells you straight out not to do any of what I did, but all lifter companies that I had dealt with in my lifetime say to do what I did.

Any of you guys that have the noise issues follow Morels instructions or did you prep them the normal lifter way like I did.

Again, mine would just have some quick clatter when started up after sitting for say a day or two or more, but would quiet down real quick. Nothing abnormal I felt.
I did not clean them out but as soon as I got them I put them in a coffee can with oil till I installed them.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:08 AM
  #72  
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I did not clean them, I followed their instructions. It was different then what I was used to but I kept in mind they were High RPM lifters so knowing they were different I didn't put much thought into it.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Maine
That doesn't make sense (I'm not questioning your experience just thinking out loud). If at one turn (.050 preload) they were quiet, why wouldn't the oil pressure fill the void and take up the slack of another .025 inch (half turn)?
I believe there is close to .150 inch of travel, so at one turn there is still .1 inch of slack, half turn .125 inch.

Maybe I will turn mine up to 1 full turn.
No idea but I have video to prove it...
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:17 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
No idea but I have video to prove it...
I've heard the same thing. Mine are set at 1 full turn and in years past I always went 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Again, knowing they were the High Rev lifters, I made sure to follow the instructions.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:55 AM
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Did some research and talked to Amsoil...changing oil weights won't make a sh|t bit of difference.

The kinematic viscosity of oil at cold is nearly all the same between 5-50, 10-40, and 20-50. Granted there might be benefit in changing to a lighter weight oil, it will still be like sludge at cold.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Maine
That doesn't make sense (I'm not questioning your experience just thinking out loud). If at one turn (.050 preload) they were quiet, why wouldn't the oil pressure fill the void and take up the slack of another .025 inch (half turn)?
I believe there is close to .150 inch of travel, so at one turn there is still .1 inch of slack, half turn .125 inch.

Maybe I will turn mine up to 1 full turn.
I did the work on this boat, when Justin was concerned with the noise I drove to his marina, ran the boat for 5-10 minutes, changed the oil from royal purple 20w-50 to Napa 5w-30 per morel's recommendation, in the both motors, and adjusted the valves in the stbd engine. Both engines stopped making noise when I restarted it and let it run for about 8 min. I then adjusted the port to match the stbd, at 1 full turn from the 3/4's they were at.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
Did some research and talked to Amsoil...changing oil weights won't make a sh|t bit of difference.

The kinematic viscosity of oil at cold is nearly all the same between 5-50, 10-40, and 20-50. Granted there might be benefit in changing to a lighter weight oil, it will still be like sludge at cold.
@ 0* the viscosity may be similar but what you need to know is what it is @ 60*. I don't believe you've ever started your boat when the oil temp was 0*c.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:44 PM
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Ok, I'm going to start at 1 turn then instead of a 1/2.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:54 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
Did some research and talked to Amsoil...changing oil weights won't make a sh|t bit of difference.

The kinematic viscosity of oil at cold is nearly all the same between 5-50, 10-40, and 20-50. Granted there might be benefit in changing to a lighter weight oil, it will still be like sludge at cold.
I'm not an engineer but how do they figure that? If I'm pouring oil into and engine when it's cold the 20/50 pours like caramel while the 5/30 is still pretty thin. When priming engines in the winter I have noticed it puts much more force on the drill with 20/50 than it does with 10/30.

I do know that the Amsoil 15/50 is more like a 10/50 from what they told me. They said they use the 15 number more for marketing purposes. So I'm told...
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:24 PM
  #80  
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I pour oil in temps down to -20F. I can tell you all about cold pour from all weights and conv vs synthetic from, again -20F to 100F.

Yes, I use to have oil racks outside. And I found out real quick the advantage to synthetics when temps got down say under O*F.

Pour points, IMHO, has everything to do with cold start pumping rates.

Anyway, maybe I'm different, but I rarely start my boat under *65F-*70F.

And, when I have a hyd lifter euipped engine that is going to see say 5400+rpm, you bet I'm using a thicker oil like 20w/50 and at min good 15w40..

Lastly, I mentioned it earlier and I'm dead set on this one. Run the weight of oil your engine (clearances/use/temps/etc) wants / needs. Running a certain lower weight for a lifter kinda makes me say, WTF !

There, I said it, lol.
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