it was just in case your transom assembly was newer as your side profile says 1990 Baja but have a 502 MAG MPI in which we all know 1990 had no 502 MAG MPI. Just saying and have no idea what year model stuff you have installed.

It is also added info for whomever. Again do not install springs on the serial # and up posted in the SB in the link above from my post. You will be knocking out your engine coupler if you do in short order..

Nope. Nearly killed me but I got them all back. Last ones when the engine blew and I lifted it out

Correct.

That is why I told the OP to look up his year/model and gave the link.

If you look up the Gen VI big blocks, most (if not all) do not show the spring arrangement.

Edit in: Great Service Bulletin link BUP. Tht clears up a lot ! Thanks.

Well I have the older style with the fiber washer and spring. They don't look like fun when it comes to reinstalling the engine. I have no room in the engine bay. The 502 had to get turned 90 degrees then pulled straight up.







Photo from the house as she was watching that I was being "safe"



There is thru hull transducer in all the gunk... I wonder if it is broken or what the story is with it. The previous owner mounted a new transducer off the back of the transom (witch don't read for chit!.) Any way to test them? Dose most depth sounders use the same transducer?




And well dam it. The car has to sit out side now running out of room in the garage



This I found interesting wiling looking at the 2 engines. Mine (1994 model) has Mercruiser tag



The other 502 EFI I bought that was in the 1995 Scarab. No tag.. There isn't even the rivet holes for the tag. I'm sure it is stamped on the computer/electrical box, but what is up with this? Is it in a different location? Also I want to use my knock sensor (looks brand new compared to the other) Anything special that needs to be done to the threads or just a simple remove and re screw in?



Tonight the tare down will start!

Hell ya 502 carnage pics here we come!
Some of gms crate 502's had a mellow off idle torque cam and i believe oval port heads for the dedicated smoke the tires from a dead stop in a heavy cruiser crowd. Might not be a bad idea to pop the rear cam cap and see what s in there before you bravely stuff that motor back in there with seat still installed. Last baja i pulled the motor out of had 3 sounder pucks glued to bildge floor all different frequencies and all were toast.
Dont forget to add your oil drain hose to the oil pan lol thats one uninviting looking engine bay there

nsx, you can remove those interior side panels and a couple of 7/16 head bolts for the rear seat and slide the whole seat forward. Gives you a lot more room to work on it. I replaced the bolt with wing nuts - now I can have my seat pulled forward in about ten minutes. I would definitely do this before trying to put that motor back in!

Another thing that makes life easier: take a sawzall or jig saw and cut out a section of the rear seat back underneath the cushion, and replace it with an aluminum plate with some screws. This will give you much better access to the front of the engine if you ever need to replace a seawater pump, change belts, PS pump, alternator, etc.

That transducer is the factory one that shoots thru the hull. I would buy another thru hull puck and epoxy it in right next to that one. I don't know of a way to test them outside of the water. Those transom mount ones almost always lose the signal once you start moving - you get air bubbles cavitating off the hull which messes up the signal.

Duct-tape the washer and spring in place then drill a hole in the duct tape where the bolt will go.

I've never done it because I can pretty easily reach them in my boat, but i read that trick on here somewhere...

BudMan. I found the 7/16" head bolts to remove the cushions, but as for the fiberglass part of the rear bench I didn't see chit. Ill have to check into it more when I'm cleaning the bilge. Lots of room in there now. Ill also be cleaning up to wiring wile it is wide open.

It also might not be fun to even slide. I have 5 speaker wires running thru it, 2 sets of battery cables(plus the one that goes to the starter from the switch), plus the 6x9's and 2 - 12" subs in the rear bench..

Any recommendations for a new depth sounder? I just need one that would fit in the 2" or so opening. Below is the one currently in the boat. Or do I just buy a new transducer for it that is thru hull puck and epoxy?

Is your battery switch mounted under the seat? I moved mine to actually mount on the top left corner of the front of the seat base. Makes it much easier to get to it if you need to access the switch - I used to hate having to ask people to stand up and then having to fish around under the seat for the switch. I have four screws to remove and then I just lay it in the gunnel pocket and slide the seat forward.

I have a pair of 6x9's in my seat base, and there is enough play in the speaker wires to allow me to slide it. I revised some things to make working on the boat easier. I guess that is a sign that I spend too much time wrenching on the damned thing! The wife is about to divorce me if I keep working on it.

I would call Uniden about the transducer and ask them.

It seems like I can't change a spark plug without pulling the center bench and back seat on my baja 272, and it's fairly generous with space, relatively.

I think that I read Livorsi is the only depth finder worth a dang in regards to the 2"/hockey puck style. No personal experience though.